November 30, 2005
Underway to Bahia MurcielagosCaptain’s notes: “We are underway, for the Murcielagos Islands (Bat Islands). They are about 20 miles north west of where we were. The weather is supposed to cooperate for the next 3-4 days, so we are taking advantage of it. We will meet up with friends Royce and Pam, s/v RDreamz. They with us in Bahia del Sol, El Salvador and currently are in Bahia Santa Elena. Gaby and Sami had a great time playing in the pool with Royce. Judy and Pam had fun enjoying retail therapy sessions in San Salvador.
Underway, this is a beautiful clear, sunny and warm (not hot) day. We have about ten knots of wind out of the west and are sailing nicely. Not particularly fast, but comfortable, about a seven-hour ride, sailed for about fifteen miles, but had to motor the last five. The wind was coming from right where we wanted to go, and not enough room for tacking.
We safely anchored at Key Point, two miles across from the Murcielagos Islands. It's a bit breezy, a north wind coming down the Santa Elena Peninsula. Being anchored at the Islands would be a bit “iffy”. We have anchored in much worse conditions up in the Sea of Cortez, so the conditions do not concern us.
This is the first anchorage, since being in the Sea of Cortez, close to eighteen months ago, that we are anchored alone. There is something wonderful about being in a remote place, just you, your wits and nature. This is a beautiful spot, not much wildlife to mention, but the place is rugged and the vegetation climbs up steep volcanic terrain. To the west, the Murcielagos Islands offer dramatic silhouettes against clouds and a sky with spectacular photo opportunities. We like this place, already.
The first day here was spent doing school and projects. Judy sewed a Sunbrella cover for the life raft. It came out great, even though I measured wrong and she needed to add a strip in the middle; a row of pink ducks on the strip add to the design and covers the error. The computerized sewing machine does some great things! She has been very happy with her little Kenmore Elite sewing machine; it has held up through some tough projects. In the three years since purchase, with the occasional help of friends, she has sewn new interior cushions in the entire boat, a new dinghy cover, new life raft cover, repaired the mainsail cover, made two Barbie elegant gowns and jackets, created the new line of Sami Sacs, and most importantly, patched and repaired the Captain’s work shorts countless times. The Captain worked at re-wiring the night light that swings from the stern and putter around finishing an assorted number of boat projects and maintenance “fixes”.
In the evening, the family would share our meal, conversation, laughter and then slip into a round of Mah Joong. We have added some rules for counting up points, which makes this game of strategy a bit more of a challenge.
It was a productive day, a satisfying and generally all around great day.
The next day, the Captain went fishing at a nearby reef. He caught a small rockfish; should have kept it, and a 3' Needlefish. (Judy already had a pork roast in the oven, so the thought of a fish sitting in the refrigerator seemed silly to him. Ha! Had we only known how hard these rockfish are to catch and keep!). The Needle fish look a lot like a Barracuda but with a longer snout. They have a zillion small green teeth and their flesh according to the fish book is a bluish-green, but changes to white when cooked. He couldn't bring himself to keep it. He managed to catch several more Needle fish over the few next days. They are fun to catch, they jump often and "tail walk" on the surface trying to throw the hook. He brings them along side the dinghy, and with needle nose pliers, he gently removes the hook and lets the fish swim away.
We were joined for two days by s/v Rdreamz. One afternoon, we joined them on a dinghy ride to explore some of the beaches. The winds were quite gusty so none of us were comfortable diving or snorkeling out at the islands, even though this area is known to be good diving grounds. Local fishermen frequent the area, leaving an occasional cage pot, perhaps catching lobster?
On the beach, we found lots of small and a couple of large Hawaiian cowries, large plate limpets, horn shells, rock shells, olive shells, cone shells and augers. The rocks of the area included a schist, a green sheen, made them glisten in the light, too flaky to be of much use as a tool or trading gem.
The best find of the day were the sighting of fresh turtle tracks leading to nests. At one location John found shriveled eggshells near a large disturbed area. At another site the nest mounds were freshly made, perhaps made in the night or at dawn, as there were no signs of the wind tracks which will hide the mother's tracks back to the sea. At one mound, we found a small 2” diameter hole; possibly the sign of an intruder. We suspect that these were the nests of the Olive Ridley turtles as they are who we have seen mating in the sea. Although other cruisers report sighting baby Hawksbill turtles adrift. We are fascinated by the turtles and will continue to learn as we travel these shores.
At one beach, Gaby and Sam enjoyed climbing to the top of a large sand dune and sliding down it. It reminded them of the sensation we experienced as we descended Volcano Pacaya in Guatemala.
A nearby fresh water spill provided a place for a quick cold shower. Judy is tempted to go back for the Jerry jugs. It is laundry time, again. The ALL too pragmatic First Mate, the kids remind her that she needs to slide down the dune instead.
Daily, this anchorage receives a “healthy” dose of wind, sometimes gusting to up to 30 mph, which make this anchorage at Key Point, at this time of the year, a bit rocky. We don't own a wind meter, but several times, the gusts had to get up into the 40's. Luckily, all crew seem to be fine, no nausea or signs of discontent, we are just content with the coolness, even wore a pair of long pants and a shirt with sleeves.
Everyday, we observe sunrise and sunset from our deck, just watching life. Everything around us is ever changing, from the coming and goings of the cumulus, cirrus, and stratus clouds, to the stars studded ceiling that bids us “Good night” in this remote anchorage on the Pacific Coast of paradise.
Time to watch another gorgegous sunset.