1 April 2006
El Valle, PanamaWhile Captain Royce (s/v Rdreamz) and Captain John transited the Panama Canal on s/v Eletheria, the female crew took off on a "girls only" weekend adventure to El Valle de Anton. West of Panama City, El Valle de Anton is a country town tucked in a crater of an extinct volcano, created over 3 million years ago. It extends over 5 km concaved and is considered one of the largest in the Americas.
As we descended into El Valle, we stepped into a one main street town, surrounded by lush woodlands. It being a Saturday, there were many local residents shopping for their fresh fruits and vegetables. The occasional tourists were moving discretely in and out of the aisles. El Valle de Anton has a reputation for its diverse handicraft market where indigenous Indians sell their wares. The large covered market area is fifty percent allocated to the selling of fruits, vegetables and a wide selection of nursery type plants. The other fifty percent of the area is dedicated to artesanwares. The diversity of handicraft work of the Ngobe-Bugle, Embera and Wounaan Indians filled the aisles.
Most of the baskets were loosely woven and perfect for everyday use. Many were large and of a variety of colors, some as plates or a baby cradle. Not only baskets, but also woven grass puppets and figure ornaments were delightful to see.
The ceramic wares bestowed paintings of people in their daily lives or scenes of nature. Sculptures of people, hands formed, some painted, some merely terracotta, at work and at play were each unique and emoted character's experiences, some sad, some happy, and some content.
Painted wooden plates and painted scenes on feathers were created on the spot. Pam was challenged to sort through many of the painted plates to find the perfect one for her boat. Gaby and Anya had fun sorting through the abundant choices of feather paintings and chatting with the artist, Mr. Almeida. Mr. Almeida (not Tony) told them that he painted on feathers from the toucan, peacock and blackbirds.
Mr. Almeida shared with Pam and Judy the meaning of the molas, their color and designs. Some of his molas were made by his abuela, grandmother. The molas designs tell stories and hold meaning in their structure and color; some are designed to stimulate the imagination, while others represent our elements of life-and the habitats that surround us. Along the roadside adjacent to the covered market are many stands of molas hanging on colorful display. The choice of mola pieces was overwhelming in quantity and quality. Although only my opinion, it seemed that the quality of molas were comparable or better and more diverse than we had seen in Panama City.
It is important to note that one can find both commercially machine made molas and those made totally by hand. At one stand, I was drawn to their use of maroon, purples and blues for their molas. Sami approached the stand and inequitably pointed to one that "spoke" to her. Needless to say, the husband and wife from the Kuna tribe were quite taken by Sami's decisiveness and selection. After the sale was completed, the wife nudged her husband to give Sami a beaded bracelet, a special acknowledgement that she had made the right choice. Photos taken together and then, we moved on to the next stall.
We found dealing with the people easy and honest, everything was negotiable; they assume you will negotiate even if only a little. Negotiations need not be too strenuous, as the labor involved can easily reflect a labor rate of less than $2/hour.
Interacting with the artist or artesian became irresistible. We spoke Spanish and English in our negotiations. Meeting the artist meant a photograph with every purchase. They seemed to appreciate the acknowledgement for their work as we did. Removing the "middle man" seller was a welcomed experience.
After lunch, we went for a hike to find El Chorro Macho (The Manly Waterfall). The hotel provided us with a map and directions. As we read from our reference book, this was one of the tallest waterfalls at 80 meters in the country and considered an easy 15 minutes from the center of El Valle. Since we arrived at the end of the dry season, the El Chorro Macho was more teasingly referred to, by us as, "El Nacho". The waterfall was barely evident. And it was more like a 45-minute walk, although easy and very pleasant. We were charged an entry fee of $5pp and half price for children. The swimming pond mentioned in the guidebook was not worth the fee of an additional $2pp. And it is questionable if the canopy ride at $40pp would have been a worthy venture.
On the other hand, the 30 to 45 minutes walk from our hotel, was well worth the visit to El Chorro Macho. The walk was worth the visit as the songbirds sang beautifully and the butterflies and hummingbirds flittered frequently to the trumpet vines. It was a cool, moist afternoon walk that allowed us peeks into the local wealthy estates.
We did not visit the Pozos Termales (thermal springs), which lay, on the western end of town. And it was obvious, that hiking and exploring the natural environs around El Valle would be a top priority on a future visit. There were several hotels on the edge of town that seemed to cater to the tourist who preferred outdoor exploring.
At the end of the day, we strolled to the farmers market, still in progress. We purchased fruits and pastries for our Sunday continental breakfast. A good grocery store and pharmacy are nearby for any needs you might have (like: cold drinks, yogurt, paper plates and plastic forks). While at the farmers market, a truck drove up loaded with fresh baked pastries and a tall decanter of a popular Panamanian beverage made of rice, water, cinnamon and honey. Of course, we had to buy a sample of everything. That was fun.
In the evening, we ate in a restaurant associated with the hotel. Anya and I had a traditional Panamanian chicken and yucca soup and Pam enjoyed a platter of shrimp in coconut flakes. Salsa music filled the air, but we retired to our rooms, as a wind blew into the valley and brought a bit of rain and a chill to the night. After a long day of hiking and shopping, we were ready to just be lounge lizards.
On Sunday morning, we ventured once again through the market. At a booth, with abundant, gems and beads, "Jose" assisted us, so we could find just the perfect necklace, bracelet or accessory. What can a woman ask for, but a PanaMan willing to serve us with jewels and a smile. Hummmm. By this second days, our faces were familiar and we easily were nodding, "Buenas Dias" and "Como esta usted" with the women in their traditional colorful Indian dresses, headbands, beaded leg warmers, and gold nostril rings and the men in their Panama hats and western attire. There was this mutual feeling of ease, comfort and familiarity as we strolled on this beautiful and warm Sunday morning.
This was a "girls get away" so we did our fair share of cruising through the beads and gems stalls. Several of the stalls sold work made of the local seeds, shells and bamboo of the area. One exceptional stall (VERyCA), located on the main road, had very unique jewelry designs by Veronica and sold by her husband, Carlos. This couple had moved back to El Valle after living many years in the mountains upon the birth of their very adorable daughter. Veronica's designs are sought by many of the wealthy women of Panama City who come especially to El Valle for her adornments. Anya is now an owner of one of VERyCA's one of a kind necklace.
In addition, outside the hotel, macramé artist wove beautiful necklaces and bracelets. Talented with their designs, their works were well done and lovely.
The fruit and vegetable market was fun and a delight to visit. Diverse and delicious fruit filled the stalls, including fresh cashew fruit (and the nut), red six-inch bananas, green-foot long bananas and yellow finger-size bananas, pineapples, mangos, melons, papayas, starfruit, apple green plums, and a red fruit with a white interior. The vegetables were abundant including Chinese broccoli, yucca, chayote, basil, mint, parsley, lettuce, and even chestnuts.
On Sunday, we filled our newly purchased baskets with fruits and vegetables and brought them back to the boat. Fresh farm produce and the aroma of basil as we wound our way back to the city were a heavenly memory to be stored in our Bank of Happiness.
For those with gardens, you could indulge in a nursery of a variety of orchids, bromeliads, lantana, hibiscus, gardenias, and many shrubs that we could not identify.
From the market, we walked through town to the church. Services were in session so we did not venture inside, although we have read this is worth a viewing. Behind the church lies the museum (.50) and is worth a visit. Displays of the geologic history of El Valle and the extinct volcano are in both English and Spanish. Artifacts of archeological digs are evident. And a display of current artesian wares, excellent examples of pottery and sculpture are on exhibit. We fell in love with some of the pieces made by a local artist who lives in the mountains above El Valle.
As one leaves the museum you stroll through a well-manicured church courtyard with groomed hydrangea shrubs with variegated leaves, unique to me. The care of the courtyard made me aware how clean the town, in general felt. There were no abandoned dogs or garbage in the streets.
One can walk along the road and miss looking up to view the mountains. Don't miss getting into a hotel that has a third floor balcony where you can view the Sleeping Indian Girl (La India Dormida), local pride of the folklore may bring you to meet one who will tell you the tale of this tragic fable of forbidden love and death.
Our lunch was had at a newly open Italian Café, called 'Bruschette' where we enjoyed Caesar, Greek Salads and Hamburgers or garlic bread. Like most, Latin American restaurants, the tenor was relaxed and comfortable.
Our perception was that there were a few more handicrafts stalls on Sunday than on Saturday, but the difference was not significant. If you were only able to visit El Valle during the week, we would encourage you to go. El Valle is a tranquil and appealing town on any day of the week.
It was standing room only when we left El Valle on the van. Some people only traveled to Santa Clara, others boarded mid-route. Along the way, Anya fell in love with her "PanaMan". Of course, he was a bit young, at two years old, but he charmed her and she charmed him, a love that couldn't be resisted. There was much giggling and smiling at the back of the van.
Our weekend finally ended as we crossed the Bridge Across the Americas. A weekend filled to the brim with laughter, joy and pure delight.
LOGISTICS
Transportation
Costs: $4.55/pp/oneway
Route from Playita Amador, take a collectivo (.25) to Central town and transfer to a bus that will take you directly to the Albrook Terminal (.25). At the Albrook Terminal, purchase a ticket to El Valle de Anton. The forty passengers, air-conditioned vans leave every thirty minutes ($.3.50) purchase your ticket and then walk to the gate and pay the .05 to get you through the turnstile. The ride from Panama City to El Valle is 2.5 hours; you'll travel through the outskirts of Panama City and then into the highlands of western Panama. The scenery is like parts of California with the pine trees and foothill landscape. The ride is comfortable and easy. The end of the line is El Valle where you will get off at the Super Centro (one of two big grocery stores).Across the street from the bus stop and at either end of the town are several hotels. Additional accommodations are nearby or take a taxi to another spot.
Bring a shawl/poncho or light jacket, as the van can be cool from the air conditioning and while we were in El Valle, it rained and the winds blew down into the valley.
Return trip: Catch the bus back to Panama City at the designated bus stop (adjacent to the public market). You can go all the way back to the Albrook Terminal or do as we did, and ask to be left off on the first stop after the Bridge of the America (and thus closer to Balboa Yacht Club and Playita Amador. From there you can catch a taxi ($3.00).
Accommodations (where we stayed)
Hotel Residencial El Valle: Owner-Luis Enrique Tiban
No reservations necessary. Price negotiable. Check out time 2pm.
(507) 983.6536 Avenida Central, frente al Super Centro Yim
www.hotelresidencialelvalle.com
Hotel Residencial El Valle, a combination restaurant, artesan shop and hotel, with friendly service. Serves coffee in the morning. Third story balcony with hammocks and view of La India Dormida. Private bath and hot showers, clean and well maintained.
Our Rates: 5 persons/1 large room with 2 queen beds and 1 double bed for $45/night
Artesan Shop: Good discount to patrons of the hotel. Everything is negotiable. Artesan-wares from all over Latin America, including Guatemalan weavings.
Restaurant: Good Panamanian meals, nothing fancy, just good and reasonably priced ($6-8pp)