07January 2006
Bahia Ballena, Costa RicaAs we sail south, we watch as the habitats change with the season. Many of the trees have lost their leaves, occasionally revealing a picturesque silhouette of tree trunks on the hillsides. The colors of green vary both on land and sea from a palette of grays to blues, yellow to red tinted.
We have left the dry tropical forest of the northern coast and now we are in the central coast of Costa Rica. We are anchored in Bahia Ballena, on the southeastern edge of the Nicoya Peninsula. It's a pretty place; scattering of pink and yellow flora can be seen on the hillsides. We lie at the edge of the dry tropical forest and the more typical tropical rain forest.
It has been clear in the mornings and by mid-afternoon tall rain clouds appear. Cool temperatures and dew in the morning is a blessing and a curse, we'd like to collect some rainwater and wash the deck, but we don't much appreciate the mold and mildew that comes with the dampness. It is cool enough in the morning that we have brought our blankets out from storage.
At least the water maker is working like well and potable water is no longer an issue. However, we are on our last propane tank and the chef has been put on warning-mode, to conserve. No more, social extravaganzas, oven baked breads, steamed cha sui bows or pizzas. A cruiser has hailed us to offer us their propane tank, knowing that the chef might suffer withdrawals without her galley in full working order and output.
The Captain is still working on adjustments to the fluctuating state of the anchor windlass. Ah, an endless list of boat projects.
We ventured to Cobano, a nearby town, and a 40-minute bus ride over hills and valleys through a landscape that reminded us of the California wine country (without the vineyards). Our objective was to check out the town, provision at the local grocery store and for the guys and Sami, to use the Internet Café. But for the women, it was to investigate the newly opened, La Ropa Americana (a thrift shop). Cruisers frequent these thrift shops were bargains could be had for button down shirts (toss the T-shirts and go for the button down look), thin India-made skirts, light blouses and shorts for $3 usd or 1500 colones. Those cruisers who never ever dared ventured into a Marshall's, Ross or consignment shops, now frequent these familiarly scented shops. An equalizer among the cruisers, your measure of worth is not just whether you can make ice, but whether you found a gem at the La Ropa Americana. Sami wasn't complaining when her personal shopper found a nearly new, size 2 petite Ann Taylor shiny set of capri's with beaded cuffs, for 1500 colones. Yahoo, we scored.
There are many ex-patriots living here, one of whom made a fortune designing an inverter/charger for marine and R/V use (Heart Inverter). We had one of his inventions, on our last boat. They own over 300 acres across the bay, now called Heart's beach. They were cruisers who found paradise and stayed. Twenty years later, he is still inventing the latest in inverters ala gadgets and his wife is an integral member of the local community. His wife, Honey, manages and coordinates the Bahia Ballena Farmer's market on Saturday mornings. She is having the local community outside of San Jose, farm types of vegetables that ex-patriots like, as well as grow the native local crops. She is selling a cocoa stick flavored with mint or cinnamon that is hand made by women who are single and raising families and a honey gathered with the flavor of the lime nectar.
The Bahia Ballena farmer's market is incredible. I had not seen fresh herbs and vegetables of this quality in years, in some ways better produce than what I was use to buying in the SF Bay area. Of course, I bought nearly one of everything (Did I mention that most of the items were organically grown): mint, sage, thyme, chives, rosemary, basil, Italian flat parsley, cilantro, dill, daikon, Napa cabbage, romaine lettuce, gorgeous red leaf lettuce, celery stalks 15" tall, New Zealand spinach, and cauliflower. Unusual to find were the artichokes, flat American spinach, chard, Thai bok choy, tree tomatoes, dandelion leaves, mixed muscli, and local tart apples mixed in with the usual finds: carrots, cabbage, broccoli, tomatoes, potatoes, purple yams, yucca, plantain, green bananas, pineapples, tangerines and corn on the cob. As well, there was fresh organic tofu, cheese: blue, Swiss, fresh mozzarella balls, Italian herb and goat cheeses. And if you have cheese, then you must have fresh wholesome bread: sourdough caraway, whole-wheat loaves, pita, and whole-wheat dinner rolls. The sweet cinnamon spiral rolls were to die for, pricey at $3.00 each, but a real treat once. Then of course, she ordered a few items that cruisers and locals who live in the Bahia Ballena area had requested: organic almond butter, organic peanut butter, soy milk, tahini, and organic tomato sauces. Few of the items were a bargain, but you paid for quality and it was well worth it. Aboard, we have vegetables that are very fresh, they are lasting two weeks, holding their quality. That might say something about the time it takes to distribute vegetables and fruits and the like when it finally reaches your local Safeway store.
With friends from five boats, we ate out at the local Italian Restaurant in Playa Tambor, Trattoria Mediterrana. We motored over in the dinghy, hauling the dinghy up the beach 50'feet to the shore edge, to cable it to a tree. There was no valet parking. Later, we'd be happy we did this as high tide came in while we were gone and shore was a mere 15' away from the trees. Locals were waiting in line for the doors to open; must be a good place. The restaurant is open six days a week and run by ex patriots of Udine, Italy, Sandra and Meurizio. Lovely people who welcome the cruisers with open arms. The food was delicious, especially the thin crust pizza, a creamed chicken pasta, pasta puttanesca and lasagna. Good company and good food, the right combination for a Friday night out on the town.
14January 2006: Saturday Farmer's Market. Enjoyed this wonderful gathering twice now. This time there were many more local buyers as well as a few more cruiser boats. Gaby counted a dozen boats at anchor, most of whom we know from our time in El Salvador. Traveling as a fleet seems to be quite normal and may be the way to keep any undesirables away.
Although, the Captain has been tossing the fishing line off the boat, we have caught none. And as we hear of others who have caught, not one but two dorados in subsequent hits, usually tossing the second back to the sea, we have caught none. So, we craved fish, but we had none. We knew they were out there, but how were we to get any? As we loaded the dinghy with the organic vegetables, we were fortunate enough; to snag a fisherman with a panga of freshly caught sailfish and dorado. So, shamelessly, we bought a fifteen-pound dorado for $5000 colons (less than $1.00/lb). If you have had Mahi Mahi, we think they are the same fish. We shared the fish with our friends on Soy Libre and then commenced to enjoy the fish for four days in all forms of preparation (sashimi, baked, fried and boiled in broth). We have no fish stories of how it "got away", only ones of epicurean delight.
1130: 14 January 2006
Pulled up the anchor and left Bahia Ballena for the Curu Reserve.