18June2006
Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador
THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHEREWe needed to come into Bahia de Caraquez on the high tide at 0815, as we draw 7'. Like Bahia del Sol in El Salvador, a sandbar has developed at the opening of the estuary. One has to navigate the unevenness of the sandbar depths and the surge of the currents and swells. The tidal wave action is dramatic, creating some great surfing opportunities, but not the kind of conditions one desires for a boat. This is especially true at this time when a predicted and building tropical swell was due in the next 24 hours. Once over the sandbar and behind the spit of the estuary, one is in more calm waters at the large mouth opening of the river.
The day before, S/v Carina had made contact with the Port Captain and Puerta Amistad (an enterprise established to interface with the Ecuadorian agencies on the behalf of cruisers), and asked if the conditions on Saturday morning would be amenable for bringing the s/v Encanto into the Bahia? They were told, "no problema, a pilot will be out there around 7 AM."
We slowly made our way in the dark, pass fishing long line nets, fishing boats and a few freighters, to the area called the "waiting room" where we waited. Carina hailed (channel 69) us at 0645 to see how we were doing and to remind us that if we didn't see the pilot by 0730 that we needed to call Puerta Amistad, so they could hail the Port Captain. So, 0730 came, no pilot boat. I hail Puerta Amistad (in Spanish). No answer. Carina hails Puerta Amistad (in Spanish). No answer. Carina hails the Port Captain (in Spanish). No reply. Then Hermy on s/v IWA calls Carina. They chat. Hermy is fluent in Spanish (I think, her native tongue) and she says there was a return response and that they (Puerta Amistad or Port Captain's office) understood that Encanto was waiting to come in on the high tide. A pilot would be out there in an hour. Hermy reminds them that high tide is at 0815 and Encanto draws 7'. Then, we hear the reason for the delay. Customs had delayed the exiting of the sailing boat, s/v Mustang Sally. The pilot boat was at Mustang Sally. They would try to finish up with Mustang Sally in 20 minutes and come out to get Encanto.
What could we do? We waited and watched as the swell behind us started to build, about 0800. A couple of pangas passed us, one even waved to us and in universal body language gestures, offered to pilot us in..."follow us" we read in his friendly waves. Captain, nodded appreciatively, but waved them on.
When entering a new country, we try to follow the "procedures" of the Port Captain, even at the risk that it might mean we won't be able to go over the sandbar and make the high tide. The swells were predicated for the next 48 hours were not a pleasant anticipation.
Alas, we hear a hail from s/v Mustang Sally. They are on their way out with the pilots. They suggest we pull our anchor and come towards them. Pull anchor! We'd just been idling and pacing like anxious parents on delivery day! The pilots jump ship from s/v Mustang Sally, jump to their panga, then jump aboard s/v Encanto. We had aboard a pilot and a young man. The young man stayed on the bow and the pilot stayed at the helm with Captain John. We exchanged a little conversation in Spanish, but all his important conversation, with the Captain, was done by hand gestures...this way, that way, straight (derecho), left side (izquierda), right side(derecha). Captain said there were a few tense moments when the depth read 5', but in the end all went well, and we safely entered the Bahia.
Like our arrival to Panama City, we were "surprised" by the landscape. Ok, we naively thought we were coming to this small little sleepy fishing village, but there on the horizon where high rise modern architecture condominiums. We were told that President Sixto Duran in the early 90's came here and built a home, so that triggered upper class speculators to come too. Thus, there are these "expensive" condos literally right next door to these one room bamboo shed homes. And for decades, a major port, Bahia de Caraquez's problematic sandbar, eventually led to the development of ports in Guayaquil and Manta so this will be a very interesting town to explore with all its dichotomies. Recycling and organic farming are to suppose to be growing industries. More to investigate...
0915, we were lead to the anchorage, the pilots departed after the familiar universal language of rubbing two fingers together, I said, "veinte-cinco dollars?". He said,"Si." I handed him, thirty dollars, thinking that I'd heard wrong. Then, he returned me the five dollars (honesty? good sign, on entry to a new country). Turns out that with s/v Mustang Sally's departure, we counted as two boats using the pilot (2 boats@$25 rather than 1 boat@$30).
We waved enthusiastically to our fellow cruiser community: Fifth Element, Carina, GIA, and Moonsong. Recognizing even more boats here than anywhere;a bit like old home week. Funny, how we travel like seasonal packs or would that be flocks?
We wanted to crash (sleep), exhausted from the 11 day passage, but we were advised that the Navy would come aboard for inspections. So, I scurried to tidy up the boat. Captain hung our yellow Q flag. And we waited.
In the meantime, it was Saturday, market day. Carina generously rows over with an armload of fresh, fresh vegetables: a humongous broccoli-the size of a basketball, celery, basil, tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, onions and a bunch of foot long string beans. Every day, you can find fresh vegetables and fruit, but the special market days are Saturday and Thursday mornings. (Although, the Navy guys also said that on Sundays we would find a market place to roam.) In addition, s/v Moonsong greeted us with a gorgeous bouquet of fresh roses (red, yellow, pink, white, apricot) with sprays of baby breathe. The roses smelled heavenly. I'm not sure if I've had fresh flowers on board since we left the USA. We be giddy.
BTW: s/v Moonsong is afloat. Captain Jerry still hasn't found their leak, in their hull, but the good news is that the water coming in is less than before. Also, they experienced damage from their bow chain's movement, in the swell and wave action, outside the Bahia, when they arrived yesterday in Caraquez. Captain John continues to contend that a bow sprit is no aid in that kind of a condition, but a hindrance. Heed warning to all ye owners of Bristol Channel Cutters or Hans Christianson's.
1100, the Navy arrives. Two young men (well, younger than me) dressed in navy blues, came in an official panga and boarded us. They sat with us in the Main Salon with their clip board and papers. Being hospitable, we served coffee and cookies. We chatted the typical kind of getting acquainted conversations, frequently laughing about some nuance or struggle to convey an idea. Sami and Gaby were excellent crew and children (seen, not heard). They had the men, "charmed" with the little Spanish that they spoke and their perfectly timed quips. (Oh, my God are we in for it! teen years; they be a coming.)
Mr. Rodgriques and Mr. Mendosa were very polite and courteous. Most of the conversation was held in Spanish, although they understood and spoke some English. Eventually, they reviewed our passports, immunization records, boat documentation, Salidas & Zarpe from Panama. They wanted copies of all. Since we didn't have copies, we are to bring them to the Port Captain on Monday. They did look at our Immunization records, asked about Yellow Fever shots? We did not have them. They said Yellow Fever is more a problem in Brazil. Asked to see our ORIGINAL boat documentation papers; which we had to convey were not aboard, but in transit from the USA and might take a month or more to get here. First time in a long time that we've been asked for the original. We spent about 45 minutes, chatting with them.
Finally, they asked to inspect the boat. One went forward and one to the stern. At first we sat at the table waiting, but then hearing all our cupboard buttons being pushed and hearing cushions being raised, I decided to go join the officer who was forward (Yikes, my underwear is up there! clean, but not in an orderly arrangement.) Anyway, he had the bed boards out and he was rummaging through our bags of winter clothes. In Spanish he said, "ropa?" "Si, este es mi ropa para invierno.""?Porque necesita muchas ropas?""Porque No! Es una mujera!" (English translation: "clothes?", "Yes, my clothes for winter." "Why do you need so much?" "Well, why not. I'm a woman!") He laughed and closed up the storage area. A sense of humor, even if clumsy, can be helpful. Wonder what he thought of my SHOE closet? Then, moving on to the storage area where our supplemental medicines are kept. He looked at the bottles of Vitamins, Tylenol, respirator medications, band-aids, then nodded and closed it up. He checked out the closets, saw the "underwear" and John's clothes and moved on. He peeked in every berth (toys bins included)and cupboard, but not in depth and they didn't mess anything up. They were very polite about it. They randomly picked a floor board up and inspected the bilge pump. They had a good chuckle about the amount of food I had stowed aboard. Sniffing the flour container. Hummmm. After a while, I think they just shook there heads in amazement, as it seemed like an endless series of cupboards with food in nearly every one, many still full even after 11 days at sea. He chuckled at my list of meal options while underway, recognizing the words for pizza, spaghetti and soup.
They asked how much water we kept aboard. Our plans for the future. And then, wished us well. The actual inspection only took about 15 minutes.
Finally, they asked if anything was broken and if we needed any assistance? Captain showed them the broken stem head at the bow. They understood and offered to assist if we needed anything. Nice guys.
All clear, we were free to leave the boat and were advised that our next step was to go to the Port Captain's Office and file the entry paperwork.
Officially, in Ecuador and in a new continent; only two more continents to visit on our world tour of the continents.
Happy Father's Day from on Encanto. Generous appreciation to our fathers for enriching our lives, from the daughters and favored (and only) son on Encanto. We are the "Sons and Daughters of Fortune".