Website entry: Sailing Vessel Encanto
Written Underway on June 8, 20061100: June 7, 2006
"Aloha" to our many friends, new and old. Our hearts are filled with gratefulness to all the Panamanians and cruisers who filled our days with friendship and joy.We have departed the Emerald City, aka, Panama City, where we leave with many fine memories and experiences. We have yet to share on the website, all the memories of Panama City, as there are many, including several transits of the Panama canal-in both directions, taxi drivers extraordinair, shopping successes, and urban treasures.
Best news of all, the Captain was able to fix the transmission, alternator, and macerator pump and complete many of his perennial boat chores. So, we were ready to go with the boat in fine working order and our spirits primed for more adventures as we make our way to the lands of the Incas, Ecuador and Peru.
Our three months in Panama City has come to a close; but with over 1000 islands to explore and 1000 birds to see, we plan to return in January 2007.
Everyday for three months, we watched the building of the breakwater at Playita Amador. Someone told us that the soil and rock being placed by the bulldozers is from the new excavations underway to expand the Panama Canal. Ironically, like the nearby 100 year old Amador causeway built from the spoils of the Panama Canal this new endeavor at Playita Amador is undergoing the same difficulties of structural instability. Three nights ago, as the south winds and waves increased, making the anchorage at Playita Amador rocky and uncomfortable, the breakwater fell. We woke to its demise; a tragedy for the Marina, who had invested many Panamanian dollars and time to the project. Did it take a sophisticated civil engineer to assess that there was more soil than rock being placed on the breakwater? Or, that the compaction technique would never have passed California earthquake standards?
From this, you can sense that the sea conditions had become rough, winds and wave were increasing by the hour. And the tales of the season's shift for the worst we all true. It was definitely time to move on, southward, time to go south.
In the meantime, we had last minute chores to do before we departed. I went ashore to do my last provisioning of groceries. When I returned in the afternoon, the staff at Playita Amador advised every cruiser, that the Port Captain was advising all boats in the anchorage to expect increased waves and winds, a storm was due and would stay for the next 72 hours. The Playita Amador anchorage would become even more uncomfortable and difficult for boats to stay secure. Already the rock and roll of the anchorage had many of us concerned and uncomfortable.
Surprisingly, within fifteen minutes, we were able to stow all our gear and goods and raise the anchor. In the company of six other boats, we immediately moved to the other side of the Amador causeway, to the Flamingo Marina anchorage. Staying in the Marina is cost prohibitive for us, so we anchored behind the island, in a zone that is sometime prohibited for anchoring by the Port Captain. Although the rolly conditions continued, it was quite reduced from the southern exposure at Playita Amador. We would stay two more nights at this anchorage, awaiting a weather window to depart.
Rumor had it that the Port Captain was not happy that boats had moved to this side, but he was incapable of enforcing matters given the weather conditions. Only one boat was specifically asked to re-anchor or pay a hefty $500 fine. Yes, mixed messages were plentiful and only added to the confusion of the moment. A large wooden schooner left on the other side, at Playita Amador, nearly bashed against the shore rocks; unattended, s/v Ranger, was later towed and re-anchored away from the rocks. However, this was not enough to save this boat and later that day, it sank. Conditions were rough and mother-nature was not forgiving to those left abandoned or unattended. No matter, it is sad when any boat is left to sink and lie at Neptune's feet.
Last minute farewells and hugs with friends, old and new, brought us brief moments of sadness. Some friends we may not see for many years, some we hope to see in a few days, and some we may never see again. To all we enjoyed the limited time we had to share together. Impermanent, but treasured moments.
On Wednesday, at 11 am, we raised the anchor and made our way into the Gulf of Panama. Our newly hung Tibetan Prayer Flags flew colorfully from our stern. A glass Turkish blue eye, given to us from our new friends on s/v Katama hung in the Main Salon to protect Encanto, and further blessings from our friends on s/v Serenity, s/v RDReamz, s/v Soy Libre, who all wished us fair winds and calm seas, accompanied us as we motored with our Main Sail raised, out of the anchorage.
The day was overcast and throughout the afternoon, we would receive some light drizzles. We were able to sail for most of the day with a south wind, 10 to 15 knots. Gaby and Sami would take on both an afternoon watch and an evening watch. Mom would spend most of the day sleeping as her seasickness drug regime settled in for the long passage. And the Captain, kept everything together.
We were beating for most of the way, of course on the nose; a bumpy, noisy ride for most of the time. We had to reef the Main sail, twice when the wind speed shot up to 20 to 25 knots. Although, during my very early morning watch, the wind died several times, leaving me to do donuts in the Gulf of Panama. It can be quite frustrating to go nowhere in the dark of the night. Lightening striking nearby only made it a bit more tense.
We are trying not to turn on the engine and motor sail, in order to conserve fuel consumption, as the passage is a long one, with lots of tacking back and forth. Our choice is to stay off-shore quite a ways, to avoid any potential intersect with Columbian authorities, drug traffickers or pirates. Human adversities are an element of concern that we must contend with and try to avoid as best we can.
On this first day out, Gaby did most of the meal preparations. People often wonder what we eat when underway, especially with a passage of 600 to 800 miles or 7 to 12 days, so I will occasionally try to mention this aspect.
First day out, we had bagel and croissants for breakfast, all beef hot dogs for lunch, and vegetarian lasagna for dinner. Lots of snack foods in between, including Marianne's famous and delicious oatmeal cookies. I bought a stalk of apple bananas at the Abasco Farmer's Market, the small succulent bananas bursting with flavor. The stalk hangs from the stern with an old sleeping bag, stuff bag, wrapped around the stalk. By revealing only one ring of bananas, at a time, we can control the ripening of the bananas, so we can enjoy them for many days instead of being left with an entire stalk ripe, at the same time. We are also trying to keep fresh for many days, hydro-ponically, grown butter lettuce, without the advantages of refrigeration. So far, the lettuces purchased four days ago, remains fresh and consumable. Food provisioning and management on a passage is in itself, an art and a science.
Day Two: Thursday, June 8, 2007
We motor sailed from 4 am until 9 am. All is well with the boat. All is well with the Captain and the crew.
John was the Net Controller for the Pan Pacific Net. All went smoothly with this weekly responsibility. And it was really easy to predict the weather and sea conditions. It was raining buckets and raining so hard that I put on my waterproof gear and scrubbed the cockpit. Then, soon after the net was over, the rains lifted and we sailed, close reach, under nice conditions, a very pleasant change from the bumpy ride of the day before.
The Net enables us to check-in with other cruisers who keep a watchful eye for our progress and any mishaps that might occur. In addition, cruising friends who are already in Ecuador have established a special daily, 5 pm local time, 6Alpha, check-in for all vessels southbound and underway to Ecuador. The intent is to help each other while we transit. The cruising community continues to amaze me for its support and generous aide of each other. We have special appreciations, to s/v Carina and s/v ceilidh and others, for monitoring the SSB, 5 pm watch and being Net Controllers on the Pan Pacific Net.
So far, we have sailed 100 miles for 45 miles of progress; only 579 more miles to go. Plodding along, just a plodding...
The girls have been on watch, since noon and will be relieved at 3 pm. They listen to music; keep an eye out for freighters, play games and chat with each other. For the most part, it remains fun for them. The sun has shown, so they've hung out a few very wet pieces of clothing and lathered up with sunscreen. Not much wind during their watch, so we have motor sailed to sustain some progress.
I am feeling better, still on my motion sickness regime, with doses of Dramamine and Cinnarizine; feeling awake and functioning well. I was able to prepare a pancake breakfast, deal with four ripening cantaloupes that had dermatitis mold, and prep-Chef for our upcoming dinner: Tofu Burgers and Napa cabbage salad with a sesame seed dressing.
Earlier, we had a bit of a disaster with some rotten eggs that encouraged the hatching of small bug larva that may have come aboard on the eggshells. We do not wash our eggs until we are ready to use them; fresh farm eggs have a natural protective coating that lengthens their life and viability. However, egg shells can carry dirt and feces that must be washed-off before use. Handling eggs can be a tricky business. Most grocery store bought eggs have been washed and the natural protective substance is removed in the washing process and therefore, need to be refrigerated immediately. However, straight from the farm eggs, not refrigerated, stay fresher longer and without refrigeration. In any case, we had an emergency drill to clean out the egg holding bins and inspect every egg for larva or eggs of bugs on our farm fresh chicken eggs. It was an egg emergency on Encanto! We'll be eating scrambled eggs for several days.
Yesterday, the Captain slept for only a few hours, so he has napped this afternoon and is beginning to feel renewed. Getting into a sleep routine during long passages is essential.
The Captain is back on watch now, 3 pm. We are sailing at a comfortable 3.5 knots, close reach. Gaby has her nose buried in an Elizabeth Peter's mystery. Sami is playing Emerald on her Gameboy. All is well on s/v Encanto.
We hope to reach Punta Mala tonight and head west toward the Galapagos Island. The sun is shining and we will sit on deck to enjoy a 1600 appletime snack and family time.