21 October 2006
Arequipa, PeruIncredibly, uplifting moments as we watched, in the morning lights, as young Andean Condors soared through the thermals with grace. Breathe it all in, standing at the edge, nearly 4,000 meters above, above the second largest canyon in the world we stood, to watch these huge birds soar. The young birds (brown and white wings) glide through the clouds amongst the clouds. Fortunately, we also were able to see the mature birds (black and white wings) with their wingspans of three meters swoop and glide. Mostly, speechless, with the occasionally spoken, ´wow´, we stood in awe. Especially, struck by the majestic bird when one circled above our heads at twenty feet or less above us. Being in the wilds with the wild was awesome.
The Colca Canyon is incredible just by itself. It is from these mountain ranges that the Amazon River begins its long journey south and through the continent. This area is a geologist's haven as it is amazing to see the Continental Divide and the evidence of the shifting tectonic plates. And, if you look carefully, you´ll see an Inca tomb buried high among the rock face of these granite mountains. Tomorrow, we hope to visit the museum in Arequipa, where Juanita, the Inca Ice Princess lives. Found mummified in the nearby mountains. Yes, there is snow in the mountains of Arequipa. Gorgeous and awesome terrain.
We are living among four active volcanoes and earthquake tremors occur everyday...so small we can't feel them. Hailed and snowed yesterday, but ever so briefly.
The Incas and Andes villagers, today, still farm on the terraces of the canyon. Still eating more types of potatoes...only 4,000 varieties to try. We must have tried at least a 1,000 so far. We never thought we'd tire of potatoes. Gaby and I loving munching on the sweet potato chips, a BIG bag for a mere .60usd. And my father and Natalie on the s-v Our Tern, would love the roast pig with the crispy skin call Chichicarron. It is delicious, if you like that sort of fried food thing. Yummy, says my Chinese ancestors.
To get to the Colca Canyon, you drive through a Reserve of Vicunas, Alpaca and Lamas. We felt we were on a safari in South America. And we were. The Vicunas, if you didn't know are part of the dromedary family and look so much like camels. Their wool is so valued that it sells for $300usd-kilo. No, I didn't buy any...even if I could find some. The vicuanas are sooooo cute, as are the Alpaca and the llamas and tons of baby goats, sheep. Sheep here, Bahhha with the best of ém (Denis just for you). The girls can tell you the difference among the dromedary species...one is chubbier, one has a longer neck, one has a longer nose and of course, there is the llama with the raised tail or was that the alpaca with the raised tail? I'll let the girls share those fun tales...tail tales.
We were blessed with the sighting of a wild fox who ran UP the rocky slope. This was considered an auspicious sign to our Andes guide. We are soooooo blessed. that's for sure.
Spent the night in a small town, Chivay. Both in Chivay and in Arequipa there are processions associated with Senor Milagro (Christ) and the blessings associated with these days. Six bulls dressed in ribbons and men with pan flutes and drums promenaded the streets, as the villagers gathered to watch. Always a fiesta somewhere in this country.
In Arequipa, some women are dressed in purple for the three days honoring Sr. Milagro. We do not understand the tradition, but still watch with enthusiasm. Traffic jams are common at these times and the taxi drivers are quite annoyed.
Back in the small villages, the women are dressed in traditional garments, long skirts with fancy embroidered trimmings and full white blouses. Yet it is their hats that are distinctive. Brown, black felt hats or white hats (the color of the felt hat distinguishes the village that you belong to). The hats were a round crown, wide brim, shaped with the front dappered down and the back tilled up and all embroidered in intricate, fancy designs.
Both the men and women are at the sewing machines crafting the hats, purses, skirts, jackets and assorted garments. Please, imagine black, old-antique, Singer treddle machines, seam stressing under a single light bulb, completing these incredibly intricate, embroidered patterns from memory, not from any computerized pattern. It was so fascinating to watch them, that even John, was impressed by their handy work and skill. As a hat lover, I had to add one to my collection, a dapper black felt hat with mustard yellow and olive green threaded designs of flora and hummingbirds. I looked quite the dapper woman of elegance, in my black hat and black baby alpaca sarape.
Other women had on straw white hats, the shape of a barber shop quartet singer's hat, decorated and fancied in ric´rack, lacy and ribbons. They too, represent yet another small village tribe.
At night, most of the men are wearing the traditional knitted cone hat, however even these caps have meaning. A red hat for the married men or a red and white hat for the bachelors. And if these hats that look like sleeping caps are set to the back, left or right, it can imply their mood...happy, sad, depressed, distressed. Who needs the expense of a psychologist or psychiatrist?...just reorient your cap and all the folks in your village will know to stay away from a grumpy YOU...so simple a message.
The people are beautiful and kind. From these high altitudes their lives are so full of work and existing. Some travel every fifteen days for provisions as they live too high to grow much food, but tend the sheep and goats. The children wear the crusty cheek skin of the dry altitudes. The women bear no teeth and we wonder if they are merely my age, but worn and weathered from the tough life in the Andes to look a hundred. Still there is so much in their faces that read of a rich life. Their average life span is 69 in these Andes Mountains. I can understand why.
We continued our journey, sighting more animals, a few wild rabbits, lizards, and rodents-that were the size of dogs. The flora still abundant, high Andes bright green mosses, yellow and blue wildflowers, cactus, and native bunch grasses. In these Andes highlands, there remains a few of the Peruvian native trees, however they are competing with the introduced species.
This reminds me that we have journeyed to this place that is so charming and yet, so at risk of changing dramatically, with the recent increase in tourism. Even though this influence is benign, like the Australian eucalyptus and the North American pines, tourism will have its affect and may casts a long lasting shadow on this wonderful place where we try to tread so gently.