25 Oct 2006,Nasca, Peru
Mysterious lines of PeruThis morning under clear skys, we raised from a five passenger Cessna plane to fly over the southern deserts of Peru. As the plane leaned to the right and then to the left, we viewed the mysterious lines of Nasca. The geometric images of the monkey, dog, parrot, condor, hands, astronaut, hummingbird, and other images revealed themselves, some large and some not. Words can not fully describe the awesome sights. Why? What did they serve? There are many theories available from the supernatural, extraterrestrial communication message, to the pilgrimage site of the societies, to the site of recreational games. Whatever, the reason, these wonders of the world are not to be missed. To each person they will have meaning. For me, they are an incredible work of art in the landscape.
For the Captain, this was the best 50th birthday gift that his family could give him, an experiential present. Now, he wants a plane. But, I reminded him to be content with a wife that lives on our boat and gets sea sick, so .... get real.
Gaby and Sami turned out to get some of the best photos of the lines. This was their first trip up, in a small plane and they are intrigued by it. They want to ask their Auntie Tina about flying lessons.
In addition, we traveled through dusty and rocky roads to the ancient site of the Nasca people, over 2,000 years ago, Cahuachi. The site was deserted. The magnitude both in size and impression was large. Although, much is covered in sand and clay, it is not hard to imagine the ceremonial pyramids, the steep narrow passageways of the nobles, the steep steps, the large gathering space or the areas of ritual. This was a special place, no ordinary life or business occurred in this place. The site planning would intrigued a city planner with fascination.
Holes in the ground, no larger than 18 inches in diameter fell to a dark spot, some three feet down. These were depositories for food, grains, legumes, even dried mollusk. Nearby, some traces of pottery shard, legumes and mollusk lay in the sand. Our guide invited John to enter the depository. And he did, but he could only get down to his waist. Obviously, a Nasca Man 2,000 years ago was quite a bit smaller than John.
After walking the site, we moved on to the Aqueducts of Nasca. These stone spiral water wells and irrigation systems are still functioning as they did 2,000 years ago to supply water to the cotton fields and to the ranchers. These were works of in-situ art, just as magnificent or even more magnificent as the works of Andy Goldsworthy or Doug Hollis in the 21st Century. The Aqueducts work works of art and functioning structures of society, then and now. WOW.
We are off to Lima in two hours, a six hour bus ride. In Lima we hope to go to the National Museum, National Zoo and tour the city. We should be there for three days and then...it is time to perhaps see the ancient society of the hunter gatherers...pre-ceramic societies.
After a month away from the boat, we long for our own beds, but we have to admit that the richness of the culture in Peru continues to fascinate us. Every night the dinner time conversations get richer and richer with intrigue as to these people, their culture and their eventual, demise. We have journeyed from the highlands of the Imperial Incas of Machu Picchu to the Indian Island tribes of Lake Titicaca to the Desert society of Nasca and now we will move up the coast to the people of the Pacific.
Have to make the bus ... so gotta run.....more later.