August 5, 2007, Sunday, Day 31
Fakarava, north Anchorage
Church services were held early, 7 AM, and from our boat we had listened to the singing and acclamations. After that gathering, the street was empty, there were few to be seen on the island except the dogs that roamed.
Anya spent the morning, working sewing her Polynesian print dress, learning the frustrations of directions that are inconsistent with the illustration and of tension control and stitching straight. However, she is determined (good sign) and committed to produce a dress and not napkins. She plods along with humor, often remarking, "If my mother could only see me now! Wouldn't she be surprised?"
Mid-morning we all went on a walk, in search of the pearl farms. There is one main road and we strolled it at the peak of the Sunday heat. Only tourist would be out in the heat at noon. But the occasional breeze filled our lungs with the scent of blooming Frangipani and Elan. At night the scent of the Daphne odora's must be amazing. Colorful trumpet vines loaded with deep eggplant colored blossoms or bright yellow blooms are abundant. Also, red hibiscus and assorted colored bougainvilleas grace the edges of the two lane concrete road. Breadfruits hang from trees, the first fruit we have seen. We thought we had missed the breadfruit season but it must be coming back in season. Occasionally, we'll see a banana tree or a papaya tree, but these are rare. We see few other fruit trees, except the abundance of coconut palms, the mainstay of the Polynesian diet. Not much else can grow on the thin soil layers of these coral atolls.
Our walk continues until we find a sign for the Havaiki Guesthouse where a discrete small sign mentions viewing pearls. Everything is understated on this island. We wander back to the guesthouse; pass the bike shed and the enclosed flower garden, looking at the turquoise calm shoreline, the extended pier, the white sandy beach and the thatched roof guesthouses. Ultimately, behind the flower garden are sliding doors to the dining room where we peek our heads in and say "allo". Inside, a young Polynesian woman greets us with a warm broad smile. She is draped in Polynesian print pajaro and black pearls. She lights up a corner case of black pearl gems and we "oogle". With Anya's help, we learn that tours of the black pearl farm are available, but not today. "Perhaps tomorrow you can return?" So, we reserve five slots for a tour at 11AM.
We returned to the road and started to head back to the main dock and dinghy. However, thirsty and feeling very languid, we decided to stop in at a small "snack restaurant". Again, discrete in its appearance, we wound around the thatched roofed structure to the shore side, where we found twenty people enjoying their lunch; tourist, just like us. We decide to find a table and join them for a "snack". We like snacks!
Two hours easily passed as, we enjoyed a three-course meal in this charming and tranquil piece of paradise. Music flowed of French female jazz singers, the air warm and sweet, the view of the turquoise waters, coral reefs and distant atolls were picture perfect. And even a hunk of a Polynesian young man strolled across our view, with his long hair, tattoo, and buff body. The women are gorgeous, too so all visual stimuli were satisfied.
There was no rush to leave this bit of heaven where we could enjoy our meals and conversations.
By afternoon, the winds have shifted to the southeast and we some mild rolliness has been felt. Scattered dark clouds bring us light showers, nothing significant, just refreshing.
Crew Anya:
We had another Top 10 day today. It was just so relaxing! Nobody was out at this time of day but that didn't make it less fun. We only saw one toothless man in a wheelchair who greeted us with a friendly 'Io Rana' which means hello in Tahitian. He wanted to know immediately if Judy or I was married and when I explained to him that Judy's husband was right in front of us, he turned to me hopefully and asked 'what about you?' I said that my 'husband' was at home, that I was on holiday here with Judy.
Well… if my husband was in Holland anyway, why shouldn't he and I spend the afternoon together?! I thanked him for his wonderful offer but claimed I just couldn't leave my friends alone. I can only hope that he used to be as gorgeous as some of the men we have seen.
We enjoyed a wonderful lunch at the local Snack Bar. Gaby and I had a wonderful salad with marinated fish, tomatoes and onions, Sami enjoyed a Chef's Salad with chicken, cheese, eggs, tomatoes and onions and John & Judy had a chicken/cheese burger but without the bread, since they had run out of bread and buns. But they got some rice on the side so everybody was very content. After delicious desserts, we all went home happy, taking new ideas for the use of oyster shells home: you can use them as an ashtray or a soap dish or - my favorite - butter dish on your dinner table!