Year end reflection
It’s that time of year again for reflection. In my case, it’s been the entire year: I have reached the half century mark. (Time here for a Keith Richards remark!) I can honestly say I have few, if any regrets. There are many things that I am truly grateful for. There was a time when I regretted my decision to turn down UCLA and Dental School. I instead opted for the Industrial Design program at San Jose State. While being an Orthodontist would have had its financial and creative rewards, my 20 year career as an Industrial Designer was by far more than I had hoped. Remaining in Palo Alto (having the best sailing in the world available) allowed me to indulge and refine my other passion. Another was to meet Judy; the rest there is history. My final 2 years with AOL, living on the east coast, working both in Belgium and Holland was nothing less than spectacular. Those two years set the stage for the past 3 and a half.
But before we get to the past year, I must mention how I got here. It was my Dad who brought home National Geographic Magazine and really introduced me to the world at the tender age of 7 or 8. Sure, I had huge a map of the world on my wall but it was within the pages of NGM that the world came alive. The photographs of Tenochtitlán, Tical, Isla de Pascua, Cairo, India, and many more have been forever etched into my mind. Also, I must mention that it was my Great Aunt, Helen, who gave me my own subscription to NGM. In the end, there were two factors: Mom and Dad’s conviction that I could do anything I set my mind to, and NGM’s coverage of Robin Lee Graham and his single handed circumnavigation in the 1960’s.
This past year started with us celebrating the New Year in Northern Costa Rica. We had just spent Christmas with several good friends, some who sailed nonstop from Panama to spend it with us. For that, that Christmas was truly memorable. Rewriting the words to the 12 days of Christmas with them, then the eight of us piling into our dinghy to go caroling on Christmas Eve in the anchorage was too cool.
Yet another of our “tests,” came as we entered the Gulf of Panama. Now remember, we are a sailboat, but loosing the transmission 150 miles from port removes an option. As we entered the Gulf, to port we had some of the world’s busiest shipping traffic, and to starboard we had Las Perlas Islands. Neither was inviting. We had about 35 miles to play with as we tacked port and starboard to Balboa, against the wind, current and sometimes tides. To make Balboa, we sailed 400 miles and anchored under sail. We did this as a family, a team, all knowing the issues, all striving to reach safe anchorage. Everyone stood watches, cooked, did dishes; all the mundane things that need to be done, all the while bashing into 25 knot winds, 4’-6’ seas at night for 4 days. Days were spent windless, drifting in the wrong direction. No one complained, whined or even worse, asked THE question: When are we going back “Home?” At one point, we traded tacks at 0200 with our former dock mates in SF, Abe & Amy. Later it was Amy’s Dad who brought down transmission parts for us. The elation of reaching safe anchorage was like no other.
After several months in Panama, having done a bunch of Canal Transits, one with Michael and Nancy whom we met on our first cruise in ’91, and a fabulous visit from Anya of The Netherlands; we left for Ecuador. As is typical fashion, we left late in the season so once again we had wind on the nose. Eight days into this trip, the forward deck fitting that holds the mast up failed. Fortunately we had the inner forestay rigged so the mast stayed where it should, and we were able to tame the flailing jib. We were able to motor the remaining distance and arrived in Bahia de Caraquez, Ecuador. with 5 gallons of diesel remaining in our tanks.
With Encanto safely anchored and repaired in the Bahia, we were free to travel. After two trips to the States, and several weeks traveling in Ecuador, we were ready to make the trek to one of my personal Mecca’s: Peru. But first, I have to thank all those that came to visit us in Portola Valley in August. For each and every one of you, who traveled so far, on short notice, I am truly touched. I had reached a milestone, and you came to share it. Thank you. I also have to thank my long time friend Ann, for her help and support. This is the one thing about the cruising lifestyle I value, having the time to spend with friends. Another is everyone’s willingness to help when problems arise. No matter the time or distance, help is available. Someone probably has the right replacement part, or knowledge, and somehow it gets delivered. We feel fortunate to have been on both ends of this equation.
Some years ago, I read an article about some forgotten fellow who had a List. On his List were things he wanted to accomplish: climbing Mt McKinley, catching an Alaskan king crab, fly fishing for Steelhead Trout, among many others. Now for someone who just graduated, was out in the working world with no new goals in sight, this was just too cool a concept. My List was born.
While I have seen one of the original copies of the Magna Carta, Stonehenge, Tenochtitlán, Tikal, the Rosetta Stone and a host of others from The List, now it’s a toss-up between the Valley of the Kings and Machu Picchu. With a 26 hour bus ride to Lima, a week of getting used to the 9,000+ feet of altitude, numerous visits to our favorite Japanese restaurant in Cusco behind us, we were ready for the Inca Trail. Make no mistake, this was one of the toughest things I have ever done. On this trek, Judy ended up with her own guide, and Gabe and Sam made new international friends. At some point, looking into a gorge some 1,500 feet deep almost straight down with no railing, I marveled at the notion I was hiking in Peru. I love these moments of truth. They take me far beyond the expected – what could ever be possible doing the 9 to 5. We have sailed over 5,000 miles on our own vessel to put us in a position to reach Peru. At sunrise, at the Sun Gate, with Machu Picchu before us, has become one of my life’s most memorable moments. As we toured the site then climbed Wayna Picchu the next day, I was completely enthralled. I am a very happy man. I have some 3,000 photos to go through: thank god for digital cameras!
Over the next month, we toured Peru. We spent several days in Copacabana Bolivia, for no other reason than: just, cuz, we could. Getting another stamp in the passport was pretty cool too. Traveling from Puno to Copacabana was an eye opener. There were literally miles and miles of Pre-Inca farm terracing. The islands of Lake Titicaca and the slopes of Colca canyon were extensively covered as well. While some are still being farmed, by far, most are unused. It was obvious that the population in the past was much greater than it is at present. At the National Museum in Lima, we later learned that more than half, if not closer to three quarters of the Indian population was wiped out by small pox, slavery, or the refusal to join the Church.
As we toured, we were continually impressed by the kindness, generosity, and helpfulness of the Peruvian people. Never did we feel out of place, threatened or unwanted. We came to trust these people so much so, we didn’t think it odd that at 1am we were following a complete stranger down the deserted streets of Nazca in search of a hostel. As we traveled to more Pre-Inca sites, I became much more impressed with the many cultures that thrived before the Inca. These cultures were so different. Most were non-imperialistic, using non-violent methods to gain influence.
Judy and I, both being designers, were tremendously impressed by their sense of Architecture and Planning. The Inca and Pre-Inca Architecture blends so well with the surroundings. The bottom rows of stones follow the terrain: following rows become horizontal as one would expect. One has to look for the blend - it seems so natural. Terrain was what it was, nothing was embellished – it was used to their advantage. The cut of the stones were the details. This could be Modernism. Sites were situated not only for defensive purposes, but for taking advantage of the incredible panorama. Remember, the Inca were mountain worshipers - they lived in the second highest mountain range in the world. Even today, the homes in the countryside built of red clay, blend with the rolling hills. It’s the odd wealthy farmer who has whitewashed their house that sticks out.
At this point in our voyage, Peru is my favorite place. Unlike Mexico, Costa Rica or Panama, the cruising grounds are nonexistent. It’s the people, archeological sites, culture and food that make Peru for me, such an inviting place.
We are currently “on the hard,” at Puerto Lucia Yacht Club, La Libertad; Ecuador. Much deferred maintenance is being performed. Encanto is being painted from the deck down. The cabin sole has been repainted; repairs to the dinghy are almost complete, as are many other projects. Boat yard living is NOT easy. While we do have power, non potable water, and even intermittent WiFi, we have to climb a 20’ ladder to do anything. That means even the bathroom – day OR night. We do have 5 gallon jugs of drinking water delivered, and the sink drain has bee re-plumbed to keep water off the hull while Encanto is being painted. We still have an inch of sand in places on deck left over from the sandblasting. Hopefully we will be able to wash down Encanto after the last primer coat has been applied.
Several nights ago, sitting on deck as the girls were returning from their nightly bathroom run, I became acutely aware of something I’ve had the notion of for some time: I have an amazing family. It doesn’t matter if we are bashing 200 miles to weather, becalmed, climbing 2500 meters on a trail built 500 years ago in the morning, only to descend another 1500 meters in the afternoon or climb down a 20’ ladder at 3 am to pee, nobody complains, whines, or mentions the notion of going “Home.” We have all come into our own with the cruising lifestyle. We meet its challenges with aplomb, and help each other when we feel down. We discuss options, evaluate and implement as a family. Our dinner time conversations are like none I can ever remember as a kid, and we had some good ones! I enjoy watching the girls hold their own during a conversation with adults, no matter the topic. They continue to do well with school, being self starters and self learners. They are getting a handle on time management. While they each have very different learning styles, Judy and I have managed to adapt and help guide them when asked. We are at the point where high school has become the deciding factor for our near future. Gaby wants to continue on Encanto for several years; so we will get into the South Pacific in the coming year. This means another item will be crossed from the List: Isla de Pascua. Where we are in several years has yet to be decided.
And all this brings me to the one concept that I value, cherish and am most grateful for:
We Have Options.
Have a safe and Happy New Year.
John