Fatu Hiva - Day 6
June 22, 2007 Friday
Crew Anya:
I slept in yesterday. I have no idea what got me so exhausted but I guess something must have done! I listened to Gaby read David Copperfield out loud. Yesterday I tried to draw the anchorage but it is really difficult to draw these mountains and peaks with all their different shades of green. So today I got back to my birds. Still have to draw some of the animals we have seen in the Galapagos. In the afternoon Judy and I went to Vaheva's home again to trade a headlamp, pencils, and perfume for a woodcarving of a frigetbird in flight.
Last night we had dinner at Desiree's with all the other cruisers (25 people) which was fun and good food: chicken in coconut sauce, two kinds of banana's, rice, fish, beef (or goat) and grapefruit. It was nice meeting some of the other crew. I even got to speak some Dutch because there is Dutch guy here from Scheveningen (actually he is quite famous in The Hague because he is De Haringkoning, which means: The King of Herring!). I also met two Belgians from Antwerp (Daan & Christophe) who have been traveling for 8 months and will continue to do so for another 4 or 5. It is wonderful meeting these people who all just decided to go for it and discover the unknown.
Today, I continued my task of scrubbing all the grass and barnacles off the hull of the boat. This time I didn't get in the water, but instead, we lowered the dinghy and I stood in it while I circled the boat. The current is so strong that I had the dinghy fastened at two points on the toe rail. I have to admit it was a bit like that movie, Karate Kid…"scrub on, scrub off". I'm sure I have a few aching muscles from the effort, maybe even a bruise or two. However, I'm so glad that I'm able to help with the boat chores. Sometimes, I feel so helpless when I watch John sewing, day after day and doing so much around the boat.
The hoisting of John up the mast triggered the girls to teach me a few essential knots: the bowline, slipknot, and stopper knot. Luckily, I do know how to make a square knot. I now have my own 20" lengthen of line for practicing. And, oh, yah, I know now, how to properly coil line. And the Captain reminds me that there are NO ropes on a sailboat, only lines, halyards and sheets.
Crew Gaby:
We did a lot today. Mom and I had to hoist Dad up the mast so he could retrieve the swivel that had come loose from the Genoa. Sami and I usually hoist Dad up, but Sami decided to sleep in instead. It was funny when we went to Barbara Ann's for dinner/potluck, everyone said they could hear Dad but we couldn't; Very funny how that happens. After that experience everyone went back to doing chores and getting the boat ready to go (sail mending, doing school, finishing cleaning the sides of the boat from the moss that was on the sides when we had arrived, and washing clothes).
At five-thirty we went over to Barbara Ann's for dinner and then to watch more of the Polynesian dancing. It was amazing to watch these men and women dance. The men are all out there putting everything they've got into the dance while the girls are just dancing, not caring at all, paying no attention to the teacher or the guys. Like this is no big deal and some of them even looked like they were in their own world or bored.
I am excited to go to Tahuata to meet up with Tori. I am trying my hardest not to picture her in my mind because I know she will look exactly the opposite. Tori is my radio buddy.
Galley Chef and Admiral:
Well, the Captain must be feeling a sense of accomplishment. He finally finished the repairs to the jib, after four days of sewing by hand, reinforcing the foot where the UV cover was detaching and mending the edge of the luft.
In addition, he was hoisted up the mast. Luckily, he has few bruises from his ride up the mast or from being up on top; he was swaying at least five or six feet while up there. It had to be a frightening experience. Yikes! He has to be hoisted again, but hopefully in an anchorage with calmer conditions. The gusts are great to keep the bugs away and us cool, but for doing work up the mast, well, let's just say if we didn't absolutely need him to go up, we wouldn't have sent him up there. Alas, after a few shouting session up and down, and the gentle lowering of him by Gaby, the Captain was returned to us, safe and sound. I think, we should promote Gaby to First Mate as she surely had the entire routine down pat and was leading the ground crew. Go Gaby!
Spent the day doing chores and preparing for the cruiser potluck on s/v Barbara Ann. Made a Fruit cobbler with lemon custard filling, fresh limes slices and canned peaches. The lemons were grown on the island and are delicious, as are the grapefruits and the limes.
I have to admit, I am longing for fresh vegetables. There are no vegetables on the island, unless you count the basil that we were able to get. We won't get scurry with all the citrus, but I do miss my lettuce, cabbage, carrots and broccoli.
The night before we and eight other boats attended a Polynesian Feast, prepared by wood carver Desiree. Menu included: Grilled marinated Goat meat, Chicken Stew in Marquesas ginger and coconut juice, Boiled Red Bananas, fried yellow bananas, Poisson cru (raw fish cooked in lime juice), white rice, grapefruits, and more bananas. Needless to say, it was delicious, still, no vegetables.
Following the meal, we walked back through the muddy path and along the road; to watch forty young people practice their Polynesian dance steps on the village volleyball court, for the upcoming Fete de Bastille (French Independence day) on July 14, 2007. How do they move so quickly? And how do the women, in their tightly wrapped pajaros, get their hips to move so quickly? Is it their hips or their thighs that are moving at lightening speed? The little kids (6 and 7 year olds) tried to teach Gaby and Anya how to dance. A few of the cruising guys also tried to learn the male routines from the little boys, however it requires strong thighs and quick moves up and down to a squat position that these sailors did not possess. Some dance moves of the male's routine, look like rap dancing mixed in with the traditional moves. It was fun to watch and gracious of them to let us watch their rehearsal.
Of course, accompanying the dancers were the percussion players, about six or eight drummers. Our bodies and toes couldn't resist moving to the fabulous percussion drumming. Quite a change from our recent exposure to the Peruvian flutes. All of the drums are handmade on the island and of varying sizes and heights. One guy stands in a wheelbarrow to reach the top of his very tall (5') and narrow (10" diameter) drum while another sits in a wheelbarrow while he carries the beat on his 3' tall and 6" diameter drum. And still others stand and hand thump, like on congo drums. Vahema (fruit lady) sat on the ground, with sticks and a small drum, setting the beat. Most of the drums are made of wood, but one beat on a very large olive oil can.
You really can't ask for a more amazing experience: wonderful weather, dramatic scenery, music, and open people. If this is the start of our journey through the South Pacific, we just can't imagine what is yet to come.
Tomorrow, we leave for a 40mile passage to Tahuata. Hope to leave just after dawn.
NOTE: We do not have the electronic capacity to send photos. Perhaps when we reach Tahiti, where the Internet might be affordable and fast, we may be able to send photos for the website. Sorry, no promises so please, just let your imagination follow us on this journey.