June 29th, 2007, Friday, Day 13
Ile Nuka Hiva, Baie de Taiohae
(Administrative Capital of French Polynesia)
First Mate:
Today, we celebrated "Internal Autonomy Day" with an early morning parade (8 AM), a display of the best on Nuka Hiva. The music woke us so we jumped into the dinghy and headed to shore. We stood close to the tented area with chairs and loudspeaker set-up. Village officials sat awaiting the start of the parade. Everything was relaxed and easy going. Internal Autonomy Day is a celebration of the island's independence even while under the governance of France. We enjoyed the welcome speech by the Master of Ceremonies, " We welcome all Polynesians and those with Polynesian hearts." We can tell that the French Polynesians have embraced the cruisers with their kindness and generous ways. To blanket a dislike for the French as so many Americans did a few years back is foolish. These Polynesians are French and they are proud of the duality of their cultures.
The Master of Ceremony went on to share that even though they are under the French government's domain and responsibility, they retain their independence, cultural heritage and identity, but benefit from the global connections with the world at large. We observe that several of the Marquesas Islands are struggling with this issue of Autonomy. On Fatu Hiva, there was a recent election that weighed the option of total independence from France. This proposition failed, however, an option remains for
future generations. Leaders at Fatu Hiva admit that they need the French support and skill to develop their infrastructure (power, water, electricity, roads) and at the same time, they do not want too much infrastructure (like an airport) as that would bring a new dimension and possibly unbalance the society's small village, cultural and social characteristics. It appears that each island is different in their relationship with the governance country. Some seek total island independence; others reap
the benefits of the symbiotic relationship. Nuka Hiva is the administrative capital of the Marquesas so it surely reaps many more benefits (power of influence, jobs, infrastructure, and supplies) than some of the other islands.
Back to the celebration…the parade started about a mile away, traveling down this one paved street village. First in the parade were the respected elders of Nuka Hiva. Women wore the traditional flower headdress (gorgeous designs) and loose mumu dresses with large flower prints. The few elderly men wore Polynesian shirts, long pants and leis. About a dozen of the elderly population, the proud and able, over seventy year olds, walked, waved and smiled to the crowds. Following them were Jeeps, ornately covered and decorated in woven banana leaves, ginger plants and flowers. In one jeep sat the Princess of Nuka Hiva, a beautiful young woman with the classic young woman's Polynesian features: long flowing wavy black hair, slender body and long fingers that tell many stories of enchantment, and obviously the demeanor appropriate for royalty (grace and charm). Of course, Polynesian music flowed from the speakers as soccer teams, rowing teams, school children, fire trucks, ambulance, association of sculptors, and other community members were presented to the village.
Our favorite presentation was the decorated war canoe (25' long) being carried by twenty buff young men. When they reached the Grand Stands, they turned the war canoe 90 degrees and set it on the pavement. Men with hand drums began the beat of the classic Polynesian rhythms and the men stood strong in their Polynesian print shorts and grass skirts, chanting, "who-a, who-aaa, Hoa HA!" Grunting to the beat of the drums in strong squat stances, these twenty men were warriors and definitely demonstrated their "don't mess with me" ATTITUDE. It was classic and wonderful. They weren't doing this for the benefit of the tourist (there are only a handful of tourist on this island). This was their hometown event, home grown event. We were privileged to be included.
We strolled to the grocery store and bought two baguettes (.50usd/loaf) and some Thai Jasmine rice ($170pF/liter) and cheese (cost about the same as in the USA). We have been able to find New Zealand canned butter (212pF/454gm), and Asian food products, too. The reported high price of eggs in the South Pacific islands is true. In Fatu Hiva, a dozen eggs sold for $9usd. In Nuka Hiva, a dozen eggs sold for $5usd. We are still eating from our provision of 210 eggs bought in Isla Isabela, Galapagos for $1.20usd/dozen. We are the envy of the fleet for both having fresh eggs, fresh apples and powdered eggs.
Crew Gaby:
Today was a celebration and we got to see a parade and dancing. The canoes and trucks were woven beautifully with flowers and palm fronds. By ten-ish we went back to the boat to rest and I made snicker doodles. Then Anya, Mom, and I went back into town because we heard there was to be traditional dancing. There was none but there was a beading competition and a carving competition going on. We also got ice cream. There was also going to be a disco party a 7 PM, but we passed on it.
Crew Sami:
Today, we went into town because today is Internal Autonomy Day. We saw a parade and dancing. When the locals were in front of the speaker, they would dance and then move on so the next group could dance their local dance. One set of people was carrying some kind of canoe, and when they put it down, it filled the entire width of the street. The street was about 25 feet long, so the canoe was 25 feet in length. When we got back, Gaby started to make snicker doodles and I started to make "Sami Sacs".
At 12 PM, Gaby, Mom, and Anya went back to town to watch more dancing. I stayed to finish some Sacs, and Dad slept. There was also dancing at 7 PM, but we were too tired to return to town.