June 30, 2007, Saturday, Day 14
Ile Nuka Hiva, Baie de Taiohae
Marquesas Islands,South Pacific
Captain:
This afternoon, we moved over to "Daniel's Bay" (Baie de Taioa), five miles to the west of Taiohae Anchorage. We met up with 4 other boats, and tomorrow we are hiking up to the base of the 3rd tallest waterfall in the world. Who would have thought it would be here. Actually, the landscape is very dramatic, spires, crags and steep mountains. All of it is covered in lush vegetation. I understand why the French require a bond. They don't want people staying here. It would be sooooo easy to do.
We did the check-in today, but we have to go back to the previous anchorage to pick up our paperwork. Yesterday was a holiday and everything was closed. We went with Polynesian Yacht Services (yachtservicesnukuhiva@yahoo.com), an Agent, so we could get duty free fuel and an exemption for the Bond. We don't need diesel, but gasoline for the generator. At more than seven bucks a liter, it adds up. We can get duty free for half that.
We received our French visa while in the USA in February so we have 90 days, starting today!!! That went very smoothly in the USA and what's very cool is that the French give you a six-month window to arrive in the Marquesas Islands and then your clock starts when you arrive and check-in for the 90 day stay. Sure wish other countries were this flexible about arrival and terms of stay. With the VISAs and using Polynesian Yacht Services, we were exempt from putting up the Bond ($1400/pp). Of course,
Anya being from an EU country is totally exempt and didn't even need a visa. Other USA cruisers arrived without VISAs and they have 30 day VISAs so they are "rushing" to New Zealand on "schedules".
The Agent needs at least two working days to the paperwork processed and FAXed to Tahiti. No big deal as we could leave the anchorage and explore the nearby anchorages while we wait for clearance; our yellow cue flag is down and we are flying the red, white and bleu flag of France.
We skipped Hiva Oa, to get the girls hooked up with some other kid boats. There have been more kid boats (especially, teen kid boats) here than anywhere we have been before. WE could easily spend several months here, there is that much to explore. We already know we want to come back to the Marquesas as there is too many islands that we are missing, like Hiva Oa, that we want to visit.
To get to some places, be ready to bash to weather in 15-20kt trades. If you do, you will have those anchorages to yourself. There are a lot of wimpy sailors out here! You won't have to go far to another anchorage, maybe 20-40nm. For us, just like a great day of SF Bay sailing!
First Mate:
Moonlight shopping, that was a change from my normal shopping ventures. I set the alarm for 4:15AM and by 4:30AM Anya and I were at the dock shopping among the dozen stands for provisions. On this island, the people start their day early, before sunrise. The music was blasting, the people were gathering, sharing and laughing like at any other Saturday morning Farmer's Market except it was dark even as with the moonlight. To my delight there was a stand with vegetables, "YES, yegetables!" I couldn't resist, I bought every type of vegetable available: Red Cabbage (250pF- (85pF to $1.00usd), foot long string beans, white cabbage, mustard greens, string beans, bok choy, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, Japanese eggplants, and huge green salad lettuce. Then, we moved on to the several stands of baked goodies, including croissants, chocolate croissants, coconut bread, raisin rolls and more. We bought five of every type for the crew and Captain on s/v Encanto. Some vendors sold a variety of fried breads and fruit-banana stalks (small, medium, red, plantain), pineapples, pompamouse (gigantic grapefruits), limes, lemons, and coconuts. About 30' away, the fisherman had their stands by the fresh water hoses and edge of the pier. Fresh caught fish sat in the ice chests, dozens of fresh large whole fish-red snapper like, wahoo, tuna were recognizable to me.
We returned to enjoy the croissants and watch the full moon set, dropping quickly over the tall peaks, while the locals closed up their tailgates and went home. It was only 6 AM.
Crew Gaby:
Mom woke me up in my opinion early so we could get checked in. Of course, she had already been up since four, so I can't complain. She and Anya had picked up some wonderful chocolate croissants and vegetables. It feels great to open up the bottom drawer of the refrigerator to see greens stuff.
Crew Sami:
Mom woke Gaby and me up to go to check-in at the yacht service place. Mom and Anya went in at 4 A.M. (!) to go to the bakery to get chocolate croissants and the grocery store to get some veggies. The croissants were good, so I can't complain.