Vessel on its way to the South Pacific

May 30, 2007-Week Two
Day 8- Middle of Nowhere


Crew Gaby:
This sucks. We are going so slow it's terrible. We only did 60 miles yesterday, we should be doing much more than that. Well enough with the complaining, I had great reception to talk to s/v Purrfection (kid boat that is already enjoying the South Pacific) last night, which was great. The captain and first mate aren't feeling to well so the boat is being left to the crew to manage. Dad fixed the jib today and ok, we aren't going any faster than we were before but at least we are all happy that we aren't rocking as much.

Crew Anya:
Strange day after a strange night. I feel helpless not being able to take Judy's sickness away. I feel very tired today and spent most of the time sleeping or reading. Luckily, Gaby reads the Hound of Baskerville out loud so we have a lot to talk about: "whodunit?" The jib has been repaired so we are moving again which makes the boat move more smoothly. It feels a little better. I do hope it helps everybody to feel better. Good news: John said we were ¼ there. Hurrah!

Crew Sami:
Today isn't our best day. Mom and Dad aren't too good, so they are sleeping. We are going 3.1 to 4.2 knots (sloooowww!!!). We only did 60 miles yesterday, which really sucks. Dad fixed the jib, so that is one good point so far. The second point: we are passed the ¼ mark. Hey, 8 down, 20 more days to go.

Captain:
Judy and I had what we think was a bout of the flu. Fortunately, I had only one end involved (the better one) and Judy had both. Ugh. We did get the genoa back up and at long last, found the trades. Anya holds the speed record of sustained 9.2kts. Otherwise, we are moving along at 6.5-7.5kts. Yeah!

First Mate:
About of the flu? Seasickness? Food poisoning? Who knows? That's the real "whodunit". Good news is that once you get both ends cleared out…you know recovery is the only next phase. I'm reminded of my friend's, Arlene, favorite quote: "So, even this will pass." Captain permitted us to watch a movie, a tear jerker (Walk to Remember) so I could cry (only a ½ box of tissues needed) and release some pent up anxiety.



May 31,2007
Day 9 Pacific means peaceful,calming.

Pacific Ocean is the largest of the oceans and considered the calmest of the oceans. It is 1/3 of the earths' surface.

First Mate:
I have recovered! Switched drugs and between Anya and John they split my watch so I could sleep through the night. But who could sleep when the boat is going a sustained 9 knots with a reef in the Main Sail and we be FLYING.  We are getting our daily exercise just trying to stay upright, if you stand, you must stand with your feet 18" apart and brace yourself against something, but at least the movement is side to side and NOT from three directions. It is a very nice change to be moving forward quickly and the boat literally cutting through the water with this shearing sound through the dark sapphire blue water. Ok, I'm well enough to make a pot of Boston Baked Beans. When I can cook and eat, then I'm content….all is well. All is well.

Crew Anya:
Can I just say: WOW! I took over part of the night watch so Judy (and John) could get some sleep and you know what? I might be a city girl but I had Encanto flying to the Marquesas. We were going so fast, even the dolphins can't keep up with us! Where are those dolphino's?!? 9
All day today we are doing at least 7 knots and Captain said that we might have these winds for the next couple of days. Amazing how different the boat feels at this speed and how different the oceans looks & feels. I really feel blessed to be here. I am slowly coming to terms that I don't need to worry about tomorrow, today. What a concept.

Crew Gaby:
8.3 knots! It is so cool! We are going (finally) fast. It is absolutely marvelous to be actually moving at such a fast pace. Only 2023 more miles left. I made banana bread today which we had for lunch. Our bananas are just about to ripen and some are just really mushy. We got in touch with some more kid boats and will hopefully talk to them tomorrow. One was even in our marina back home. What a very small world it really is.

Crew Sami:
9 knots!! That is the fastest we have gone this trip (to French Polynesia, Gaby and I still hold the record of 11.2 knots). 2023 miles left to go. Dad talked to 2 kid boats today, Phoenix (an 18 year old girl), and Barbra Ann (2 boys, 14 and 16). The people on Phoenix had a boat in OUR marina back home! They were across from Doug, Lauren, and Cor. COOL!!! As Gaby said, this is a small world.  All I can say is YIIPPEE!! :

Captain:
Oh, what a day. Wind speed and distance. Yeah! It looks like we will have a 150nm+ day. Yup, I have fixated on this, but it's now my job description. In a nutshell its: get Encanto to the Marquesas as fast as possible, with as much comfort the conditions will allow, and not over stressing the boat, equipment or crew. If it means sailing several hundred miles out of our way, or several days longer, so be it. Arriving happy and in one piece is paramount.

June 1, 2007
Day 10: Fish Friday, maybe we'll catch one?

First Mate:
Watched a full Luna rise in the east and the sun set in the west. Awesome-just look right or left and a natural splendor presents itself. Life is good, simple blessings. Then later on my watch….Captain came up all sleepy eyed to check on the auto pilot that was working too hard.  As he leaned over me to give me a hug, I looked over his shoulder, I heard myself squeak out: "whoa, WHOA, Ahhhh." SPLOOSH! A six foot wave broke over the port stern, the Captain was splattered (I was protect behind the Captain's broad shoulders) as a gush of water splashed the cockpit, stopping just short of the cockpit door and luckily NOT going down the stairs into the Main Salon. Never a dull moment even at 2 AM!!! Then, at sunset we watched a moonbow extend across the horizon. Wow, never ending firsts in my life! Some wonder why I put up with the angst and suffering, well I ask them, how does one turn your back on moments of incredible natural splendor?

Captain:
Started the day slow. Between 2 AM and 8 AM, four or five different sail combinations were tried. Unlike other boats doing the crossing, we had wind down in the 7-9kt range. Others had as much as 30kts, with the big seas to match. Our problem was that we had little wind with the large left over seas from the day before. We were rolling far too much and the autopilot was working far too hard. We are now moving along at 6+kts in the right direction and in comfort. If only that 5 gallons of sea water didn't just come through the galley window, all would be grand.

Crew Gaby:
Earlier today we thought it was going to rain but instead we got the beautiful sun. When I was sitting at the table reading history this morning a wave came in through the kitchen window and soaked the toasted banana bread, that Sami and I were going to have for breakfast, and soaked my t-shirt. The funny thing was we all just watched it come in, fixed to our positions. Well, not much else to write about.

Crew Sami:
Let's see. Today we are rolling a bit, but not too bad. We have been going somewhat around 6.0 to 7.0 knots. I finished a book, The Inheritance by Louisa May Alcott. It was ok, I guess, although the main character seemed too perfect. Anyways, earlier water came in through the open galley window. The floor got wet, Gaby got a little wet, and so did Gaby and my banana bread (our breakfast). The funny thing was, dad, mom, Gaby, and I just watched as the waterfall of salt water came pouring through the window. Yesterday, Gaby and I reached 9.7 knots. Anya still holds the record of 9.8 knots this trip.  

Crew Anya:
I had a lightbulb moment this morning. I was telling John that I thought there were so many different skies and combinations of clouds possible. Far more than I had ever imagined. In the book "The Life of Pi' the writer talked about all these different clouds. I now understand much better what he was describing. Plus I now knew from experience what a school of flying fish looks like or a Dorado dieing and showing all different shades of the rainbow before turning into a dull grey. Sure, I had read about it and imagined it but all was based on my experiences in life thus far and now I REALLY know what it's like. John said: 'That's why I don't understand that people say ' I don't need to go there, I have read about it' because there is no way of knowing if you don't experience it yourself." Hear, hear. And so I am once again thankful that I am doing this trip, able to experience it all myself instead of 'just reading about it'. Now what was that light bulb moment? Well, every day actually offers me experiences - not just the extreme as I am going through now - and if I am just aware of them, then every day is a gift of New Experience and of Endless Travel. There it was again: just live life IN the moment.

June 2, 2007
Day 11: Saturday
We are enjoying the Tradewinds

First Mate: Great moments of laughter as Sam and I spent, "daughter and mom time" wrestling with Playful Puzzles, a book with 1000 Mind Games. Yikes! Although, I do love those anagrams and binary games.  I am NOT living IN the moment, I'm planning ahead: How shall we celebrate the half way mark? Shall it be a Poppy seed cake, Dutch chocolate cake or another sweet surprise??? Party time in a few short days…and then there was the "opportunity" to do laundry and hang it in the few squalls to get a fresh water rinse from the heavens…now the challenge of drying all those panties between the sun bursts.

Crew Anya:
Geez… too much to tell. This trip is full of 'firsts' for me:
- my first passage
- my first Dorado
- my first night watch
- my first sun setting AND moon rising
- my first moonbow
Eh… your what? My first moonbow! A rainbow seen at night due to the sunlight reflected on the moon, reflected on the rain falling from the clouds. Don't ask me the physics of it; just believe me when I say it is REALLY special. It looked a bit like magic to me.
Then light bulb moments following each other. Not necessary to share all of them. I just am grateful that they are there. All is well on board. Dare I ask the forbidden question? Captain, are we there yet????

Crew Gaby:
Saturday! No school yippee! Ok, now what do I do. A half an hour before Sami and my watch we played Mah Joong with Mom and Anya. It was a lot of fun getting back into the old routine of Mah Joong. Today is grey, grey, and grey. The wind is light but there are huge seas. So a little bumpy.

Crew Sami:
Yes! The day has come again! Saturday!! All the school we did today was math, so not pure school freedom. Sunday is the only day of pure school freedom. Switching subjects, I'm sure the winds don't like Gaby and/or me, because a few minutes before our watch, dad was hitting 9 knots. We are hitting 6 to 7 knots. There are many grey clouds so we are suspecting clouds. Looking back on what I have written during to beginning of the voyage, and I didn't write all that much, and I'm quite surprised with
myself!

Captain:
One of those days. Not good or bad, just one of those days. Gray. Rain. A bit too much wind. Waves from 3 different directions. And, nothing is sacred! There I was, doing my morning constitutional with the window open, only to be doused by several gallons of salt water.

I do feel very grateful that I started rigging a preventer from the end of the boom to the foredeck when we started this mostly downwind trip. At one point during a sail change, the wind backed the main, and the preventer prevented a possible catastrophe by keeping the boom where it was. Had it not been rigged, the boom could have swung across the deck with such force to either break the gooseneck fitting ( the boom to mast joint) or slam into the rigging and bring down the mast. We made a bit of northing just to make the ride more comfortable, and now that the seas have settled, we are sailing just south of east.

June 3, 2007 - Sunday
Day 12
Will this be a day of rest?

First Mate
Yesterday, made a 150 mile day. Yahoo!  Wing on Wing-whisker pole out, ah, one of my favorite sail set ups. Winds from the East, making 7 knots effortlessly, plenty of moonlight clouds to read, the seas generally flat, still a few large waves crashing against the stern and the occasional surfing and BANG of the hull as it falls off. I'm content to just ponder and watch the evening fold into dawn.  We are nearing the tropics. Warm air fills my lungs. Wow, this is great.

Crew Anya:
This is another first: I am at a loss of words. Don't know what to write today…
We played Mahjoong yesterday (Judy and I). She was teaching me the game so we played both for ourselves as for Gaby (I) and Sami (Judy). We had a great time. Too bad that the only ones winning seemed to be Gaby and Sami though. Even without them being at the table, they were winning. I am looking forward to playing more so I can get the hang of it.
Don't know what else to write.
Expect that I am happy that my i-pod is all charged again so I can listen to music!
It is my life elixir. It really is.

Crew Gaby:
It's HOT! We actually have all the fans running to get air circulation. The Galapagos was cold and we were all used to the cold. But than the heat just hit us in the night it was fun to hear each persons account on it all. The boat is moving at 4.9 knots which is feeling very slow when yesterday we were in the high fives and low sixes. I made more banana bread this morning and Mom is thinking about making some bread. Mmmmm… Homemade bread.

Crew Sami:
Today is Sunday, and the generator is running. It's really noisy, but if dad hadn't run it, then we wouldn't have been able to watch "The Lion King 1 ½", and some "Friends". We are going quite slowly today, although Purrfection (a kid boat Gaby has been talking to over the ssb) told us that we are probably in a slow, no wind spot. Oh well…  

Captain:
It's Hedonistic Sunday! What a better day to do all the stuff you're not suppose to. For us, it's running the generator, watermaker, watching movies and taking hot showers. For most, this seems like: hey we do that almost every day. Well, for us 1500 miles from any speck of dirt, to do something in excess and have fun with it, is cause for celebration.

June 4, 2007-Monday
Day 13
Half way to the Marquesas!!! Let's celebrate

Galley Chef Judy:
I am amazed how full my days can be out at sea. Yesterday, I couldn't finish all on my "To Do" list. I count naps in the afternoon as a "must do" since I'm up from midnight to the wee hours for my watch. And after 13 days out at sea, we obviously have to do laundry by hand. BTW: With four females on board, the Captain can't be a 'stinky sailor' for too many days without teasing. But, what takes most of my time is cooking fresh; sometimes, three meals per day, for five people. No surprise there, but
I just can't get into the mental swing of serving instant noodles, smoked meats, and canned fruits & vegetables everyday. Instead, I choose to provide menus, which include: Fresh Papaya Guava Juice, fresh cilantro pesto pasta, Caesar Salad (with the last of our Galapagos-Santa Cruz Island purchased Romaine Lettuce).  Tonight, rising in the corner is the sponge for our first batch of Gold Rush Sour Dough Whole Wheat bread. Gaby's the family sweet dessert baker. She has made the banana loaves over the last two weeks. Tomorrow, we have been promised a batch of her delicious lime bars to celebrate 1457 miles behind us and only 1457 miles to go.

Our large stalk of 50 plus bananas, bought in the Galapagos, hung on the stern until yesterday when we had room in the reefer to stow the last twenty or 4 more loaves of banana bread. Taking stock of our fresh fruits and veggies, at this midway point, we only have 1 more papaya, 2 tomatoes, 10 oranges, 4 tangerines, 6 onions, 20 limes, 1 broccoli, 10 carrots, 4 cukes, an iceberg lettuce head, 6 potatoes, 10 yams, 5 beets and a small red cabbage. This is why I wanted a large refrigerator aboard as we may make it across eating well fresh. We have 2 lbs of garlic and 180 fresh eggs aboard, too. And, we may make it to the Marquesas with few fresh apples to spare; I bought 90 apples in the Galapagos. Sami is pleased she isn't rationed to the cruiser guideline of half an apple per person per day.

This was my first DRUG FREE day.

Crew Gaby:
HALF WAY THERE!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yippee! I made lemon bars to celebrate the half way mark and Mom baked sour dough bread. Party time. Before our watch Sami, Anya, Mom, and I played some Mah Joong. We had a lot of fun and Anya won once. There was a slight gloom over us because we started talking about Anya's departure date once we get to Tahiti. 9. We caught a small Dorado but decided to let it go. They are really pretty fish but we think we gave him a really bad headache.

Crew Anya:
Okay. I am not pleased with the way the dolphins swim around the boat, as in THEY ARE NOT!! I really sort of had my hopes up to see (lots of) dolphins since everybody talks about how special that is (my mom, my dad, my brother, friends of mine who just went sailing in Greece and of course all on board). Unfortunately, they have not chosen our vessel yet to play with. But there is some good news, we still have 1457 miles to go… they might show up! Keeping my fingers crossed. You know what hit me today?
I can't believe I have been without seeing a single living thing for almost 2 weeks (not counting the AmberChan's who are all alive and kicking). Well, I do see lots of flying fish but if you ask me, these fish are schizophrenic. Under water they go 'Wheee…. We are Fish!" and then they throw themselves out of the water, spread their wings/fins and go we are birds!" Talk about evolution getting messed up in the process. Still, I am glad they fly around the boat because they are a beautiful sight to watch. They make my watch go by in an instant by just sitting there and watching them. Who would have thought that I could master The Art of Nothingness this well?

Crew Sami:
WE ARE HALF WAY THERE!! COOL!! Mom baked sourdough bread, and Gaby is making lemon bars. We played about 2 rounds of Mah Joong, which was fun. Not much happened, but we caught one small Dorado, but it was too small. It was really beautiful also, blue, green, and streaks of yellow.

Captain:
What a way to celebrate Half Way Day. Fresh whole wheat sourdough bread, lemon bars, (ok lime bars that weren't too tangy - but hey gotta work with what you got) and best of all: making high 7's low 8's under the stars. Too cool. Even bestest of all, I got the holding tank unplugged without a bit of poop on my hands. Way too cool. I don't know why I didn't think of this sooner, it seems sooooooo obvious now: disconnect the deck pump out hose at the deck fitting, install the wizbang plumbing fixture I created with a garden hose attachment and shut-off valve. Connect the whole shebang to the washdown pump, flip the diverter valve and back flush the holding tank plumbing. And, no loose poop!

June 5, 2007
Day 14
Over half way to the Marquesas

First Mate
The sound of the boat's speed cutting through the ocean going 9 knots, woke me. And before the Captain could dawn his life jacket and call me, I was there. Captain says, "Time to reef the Mainsail." Up on deck, there is a change of plans. The cloud bank behind us looks ominous so the Captain decides to take the Main down totally instead of just reefing. A little tough as we are going fast and the boat rocks, side to side, a lot. The pressure on the Mainsail is strong and my anxiety heightens as I worry the pressure on the sail pressing it against the shrouds will puncture and tear the sail. Recollection of backwinding the sail in Mexico, punching through the sail, flash to my memory.  I'm amazed how strong John is at these times; pulling, pulling, tugging and staying upright as the boat rocks. He gets the Mainsail down, He yells for me to "let the starboard preventor go". He ties up the Main sail. Took us 30 minutes, but a good decision, 'cause now we're in control; not the winds and waves.
We are still making between 6 to 8 knots with just the jib. We're rolling and I hang on, as we slash through the seas. Scattered clouds play hide and seek with the moon and stars.

Crew Gaby:
We are finally going fast or at least faster than this morning. Sami just yelled down to say we hit eight knots, much better than the four knots before. We played some more Mah Joong and we opened another present sent via Anya from the Dutch Uncles. This one was yummm… chocolate eggs. We were so absorbed in them we forgot whose turn it was. I am reading Dove the book that made Dad want to sail around the world. Robin Lee Graham tells all about his mast breaking and such that I am so happy that that hasn't happened to us (knock on wood).

Crew Anya:
Nice day, great speed. I did my math and it looks as if we might be 'there' in 10 days. Not that I am counting or anything…: I finished another book and started a new one. Every day I am grateful for the gift of reading and writing. I think these are the most precious gifts ever given to me. I enjoy them every day.
Last night we had a beautiful Starry Starry Night. I stayed out for a long time watching the Big Dipper, The Southern Cross and hoping for shooting stars. I didn't see one though. Then again, what more could I wish for?

Crew Sami:
We just hit 10.2 knots! We almost caught a Dorado at 9:30 AM, but it flipped off when it was close to the boat. Phooey. Oh well, can't have them all. We have 1284 miles to go, and the 2/3 mark is when we have 971.3 miles left to go. 312.7 miles left to go till the 2/3 mark. We played more Mah Joong, and I WON TWO TIMES IN A ROW!! That rarely happens, and only Gaby seems to do that. Well, got to go back to my watch.

Captain:
Ahhhh………tradewind sailing. We have about 15-20kts on the port quarter, a single reef in the Main to STBD, and the full Genoa poled to port. Speed over ground is in the high 7's to mid 8's. Below, off watch, I am amazed in that it takes to occasional swell from the south to move Encanto in a way which reminds us that we are not at anchor. We have noticed this before, even in 6-8' seas with cross swell of over 14', if there is good wind and our speed climbs into the 7-8'sor 9's, Encanto feels like she is on rails. It doesn't matter if we're close reaching, running or all in between, the speed really smoothes out the ride. For the most part the weather gods have blessed us well. Other than mostly light conditions which have frustrated me to no end, we have been spared the squalls. Just now a system passed overhead traveling west, north, west. We are traveling west south west. The system that passed had rain to the east and west, but for us we had just a few drops. So far these systems have not been of the variety we have heard about: heavy winds and lots of rain. Typically they last a very short time, maybe an hour. The ones we have been through have a little rain, an increase in wind speed of maybe up to 5kts. With visions of Chubasco's, I still put a reef in the main. At these times I covet s/v Meta's double headsail arrangement, both sails being on roller furlers. So easy to set, adjust and douse, even with twin poles. Someday………

First Mate: We close our second week underway, comfortable, and content, pondering a favored poem:

Ithaca
Contantine P. Cavafy

…"Always keep Ithaca in your mind.
To arrive there is your ultimate goal.
But do not hurry the voyage at all.
It is better to let it last for many years;
And to anchor at the island when you are old,
Rich with all you have gained on the way,
Not expecting that Ithaca will offer you riches.

Ithaca has given you the beautiful voyage.
Without her you would have never set out on the road.
She has nothing more to give you.

And if you find her poor, Ithaca has not deceived you.
Wise as you have become, with so much experience,
You must already have understood what these Ithacas mean."

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