September 21, 2007 - Friday
Bora Bora, Society Islands
Captain:
Bora-Bora, it's pretty idyllic. We're anchored in a reasonable amount of water, 70', interesting how THAT becomes reasonable when not too long ago, I would have shuddered at the thought. Unlike Huahine, Raiatea or Tahaa, there are no gusty winds funneling down canyons that had me often tied up in stomach knots. Yah, you read that right. Even I had knots in my tummy at some of these anchorages. Well, the protection of my family and our home can really keep one attentive you your responsibilities and every dark cloud overhead can be a wind blow and every anchorage has a different condition and orientation to the lee shore. As beautiful as the South Pacific is, it is not a place for novice sailors to practice their passion. Or maybe it is, with someone else's boat; just stay clear of us!!!!
At this anchorage, the wind has been light and the evenings have been still, a real nice change. I know it won't last, however, for the time being, I'm going to enjoy it! Now it is time for even the Captain to sit back and relax, peace and quiet at last. For the most part, I've been sitting on my butt reading. It's real nice to be doing it. I read in spurts, right now, it is an escape suspense fiction per day.
First Mate & Captain duet:
Just a mention…A few days ago, the Captain and I had a good deck side chat and he shared this with me. These are my words but his sentiments…. Too many of our days while in the South Pacific, east of 165° W. Longitude, especially in the Marquesas and the Tuomotus and even sometimes in the Society Islands, has been spent with the Captain's tummy tied up in knots and distracted by a state of concern, worry, and if I were melodramatic, a loom of disaster. Needless to say, he didn't let on to the rest of us aboard, instead, shooing us off to shore to go on waterfall hikes or explorations of village anchorages, while he stayed aboard and watched the weather, the other boats and the sea conditions.
Sometimes, we could sense his serious quietness and his lack of participation in our below deck activities as we caroused, laughed and sang. Surely, at times, it must have drove him a bit crazy, his crew of "clueless" females who were happy and unaware of the seriousness of the situation. He wondered if he was being too cautious. He watched and spoke to other Captains who left their boats to explore and other Captains who appeared more relaxed about the anchorages and conditions. Maybe he admits it is just that for him, everything he loves and owns is here, aboard Encanto. To lose any bit would be painful; why take the risk? Rather, isn't it better to be prudent and make choices that error on the side of caution?
Needless to say, cruising in paradise is wonderful. Come all ye cruisers, however with that said, the Polynesian Islands are not for the faint of heart or those who want assurances of consistently secure anchorages. There remains room for the true adventure, which requires a quick wit, skill, intelligence and a creative sense of problem solving as each unique situation presents itself. Those interested in self-sufficiency can find cruising these islands a challenge. The islands and their anchorages although often dotted with other cruisers remain a bit of the unknown and uncharted territory when you venture outside of the big marinas and port of calls. So, in addition to all this wild beauty is a nagging reality of how easily it can be to go up on a reef and lose everything you own and everyone you love. That's not to say, cruisers shouldn't come, but come with preparation and awareness that even in paradise there are moments of dilemma and apprehension.
Coming to Bora Bora has been good, as I watch the Captain who is finally able to just relax for long hours at a time. I look at him and my love and appreciation for his skill and knowledge is deep. Anya shared my sentiments: "I have enormous respect for John. We all have great confidence in John and his knowledge of the sea. He is a good man, a loyal friend, a demonstrated and respectfully loving husband and father, and thank heavens, a capable and responsible, an extraordinary Captain, too."