September 22, 2007 – Saturday,

6AM: Captain and I rose early to go visit the Super To’a Amok grocery store at the fuel dock, about a ten minute dinghy ride from our anchorage. We left the dinghy at the fuel dock, no one seemed to be concerned with this and we asked the owner of the dock and 7-11 type shop where the grocery store was located and he kindly pointed us in the right direction, mentioning that it was a mere two minute walk. So, down the road we tresped, when we had gone a few minutes, we came to a shop and thought it to be the grocery store. Turns out it sold baguettes, canned goods, a refrigerator of cold sodas, onions and garlic. But three-quarters of the store was stocked in hardware supplies. We didn’t figure out that we had to be in the wrong place until after we had purchased our baguettes and onions. Still of the provisioning mentality, we buy when we see what we need. We are never assured that the next shop will carry the same items.

So, John suggested we meander a bit further down the street. And there, another two minutes away was the Super To’a Amok grocery store. The parking lot was full, the place was bustling and carts of baguettes were being emptied and filled rapidly. It was still before 7AM. Since we had our Hardware store groceries, John stayed outside while I spent the next 45 minutes loading up our grocery cart with vegetables, fruit and herbs. What took most of my time was scanning the shelves in preparation of departure at the end of the week. (Our next passage and stay in the Cook Islands (a nature reserve on Suvorov Island (Suwarrow)) could keep us away from groceries for several weeks, so the reconnoitering is necessary part of the job as First Mate.)

John noticed that the marine Chandlery was located across from the Super To’a Amok. It was closed, but at least we know it exists.

8AM: Returned to the boat and yawning children. The girls rise when they like and then they are asked to do their math lessons and an elective. Gaby continues to enjoy her Civics Elective and Sami works her way through Spanish language workbooks. Both were done by 11 AM and they had the rest of the day to enjoy their Gameboys, books and play board and card games.  

Judy spent most of the day cleaning and puttering. Keeping the boat of a pack rat, clutter sorted (not clutter free) is a perpetual chore, like dishes and laundry. I had left this type of work go for many months and now it was time to tackle it. I filled more garbage bags of stuff for tossing or giving away. It felt good to be organizing, cleaning and sorting. Then, at days end, I curled up to a book recommended by the girls, INKHEART by Cornelia Funke. Already, I am enjoying this magical mystery of the life of books.

John needed a good old fashion Saturday, SOB day. He dubbed days as ‘SOB’, to try and get Judy to “Sit On her Butt”, so she’d stop working on boat chores, however, having failed to accomplish THAT, he decided to take a dose of his own recommendation. So, between turning on anchor in paradise, watching billowy clouds go from white, to gray to green, to pink, and reading a suspense thriller, he was one very happy camper.S

6PM: Must be termite season. At sunset the small flying bugs descended, they don’t bite, but they can be annoying so we closed up the port lights and hatches and sat down below. They were gone in thirty minutes. Probably just an sunset phenomenon of the season. In case you wondered, it is winter here.

8PM: Best eating out deal remains the Le Roulotte trucks in the small village of Vaitape where the grills burn hot with fresh brochettes of beef, fish or shrimp. Local were at the tables as there were only a few tourist in town. There was no cruise ship in town today and that obviously changes the tenor of life on a Saturday night. After pounding down 14 brochettes, we strolled down the road, allowing our ears to follow live Polynesian band music. Pass the Gendarmerie, the banks, the Post Office, banks, boutiques and pearl shops we wandered to a community thatched roofed and opened air facility where there were people dancing swing style to the band. Some Polynesian band music carries the same beat as American Country western music so it was no surprise to see skirts twirling. The bride strolled by in skirts of white that clued us in that this was a private party. We paused, watched and then turned around and headed back to the ferry loading dock where our dinghy was tied.

Evening ended on deck, only four cruising boats remain at anchor. We are reminded that we only have six days left on our Visas. The Captain and his crew sat huddled on deck giggling, chatting and watching the night sky where the dark silhouette of Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu loomed.

Moments later, we would all retire below, to our books, as a chill creep in and on to our skins.

Back